Search found 136 matches

by Bassbug
Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:52 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Rub-on-varnish
Replies: 4
Views: 1472

Though, you could use an oil-varnish on a paddle. You would have to reapply often on a paddle to keep the water resistentcy qualities in place. I was thinking about a boat hull as I wrote my last post.
by Bassbug
Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:49 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Rub-on-varnish
Replies: 4
Views: 1472

A rub on varnish is an oil-varnish mixture. It is not a varnish, then by definition. I think you would want to stick with a varnish for best UV properties, waterproofing and protection. Oil-varnish mixtures are commonly used in furniture finishing however and are very easy to apply...especially wipe...
by Bassbug
Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:31 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Another Ranger hits the water
Replies: 1
Views: 1031

Another Ranger hits the water

The Ranger is done and tested on a 5-day trip to the BWCAW in May. I was most impressed in the way she handled loaded in wind and on quiet waters. Although not as much room as in a longer canoe, she did very well and we cruised at 3.5mph. I am very satisfied by the stability and predictability of th...
by Bassbug
Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:15 pm
Forum: Choosing a Design
Topic: First time builder - trying to choose the right design
Replies: 4
Views: 5704

We recently completed a Ranger 15 and took it on a 5-day boundary waters trip. The canoe was a joy to paddle, but we felt cramped with two adults (210lbs & 180lbs) and three packs. The 16' Prospector would be my choice of the two Prospector designs if I was to do any overnight. I had heard by many a...
by Bassbug
Wed May 09, 2007 9:54 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Favorite Varnish or Finish
Replies: 10
Views: 4931

I have used Interlux Schooner on two boats and Epiphanes on the last. I know lots of builders rave about Epiphanes. However, that was not my experience. I was unable to get an even flow between areas I was wetting out even when thinned. I did not have that problem with Schooner. It went on so well a...
by Bassbug
Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:37 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: levelling strongback
Replies: 17
Views: 3767

Did you have everything level with you attached your molds? Yes, the stongback was level on the ground, then we put on the forms, leveled them, then put a strip down the center to hold the forms in place and began stripping. After a few days of stripping, we were comfortable sliding the wheels unde...
by Bassbug
Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:39 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Favorite woods
Replies: 6
Views: 1914

Beyond the WRC, I have used redwood on each of the three boats I have built. The first (Redbird) was made entirely out of Redwood (we found 20' planks locally). The downside is cost - $200 for the wood. On the subsequent boats, I used redwood as an accent along with pine, basswood and walnut. I hear...
by Bassbug
Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:22 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: levelling strongback
Replies: 17
Views: 3767

Our strongback was built from Canoecraft. During the first build it was attached to the floor. However on the second canoe, I needed to push it aside occasionally. I place four small swivel wheels onto a 2X12 the length of the strongback feet width (one for each strongback foot) and slid it under th...
by Bassbug
Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:23 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Titebond Set time?
Replies: 3
Views: 1210

Randy, I used Titebond (not II) and waiedt about 1 hr, just as Glen stated; however in warmer temperatures (last summer) we found that it was difficult to reposition strips after 10 min. We glue three strips at a time and repositioning is often done before all clamps are set. We used Lee Valley Cabi...
by Bassbug
Sat Mar 31, 2007 10:56 am
Forum: Boat-Building Tips & Techniques
Topic: Glueing veneer to deck
Replies: 1
Views: 5178

Glueing veneer to deck

While constructing our Ranger, we found nice bookmatched walnut veneer that we wanted to glue onto the deck. The problem we had was how to attach it to the curved, triangular, domed deck. Finally we hit upon a great solution using a FoodSaver vacuum bagger. Here is what we did. First we shaped the d...
by Bassbug
Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:15 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Strip dimensions???
Replies: 16
Views: 4374

Gabe, I use 2X stock of WRC. I rip then thickness plane to get 5/8" thick stock, then rip to 1/4" thickness. I actually prefer the more narrow strips (5/8 over 3/4) for two reasons: 1) it makes fairing a bit easier and 2) I like the look of narrow strips. Welcome to the most addicting building exper...
by Bassbug
Sun Jan 21, 2007 12:40 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: glassing hull
Replies: 3
Views: 1576

Jeremy, I put a second layer of fiberglass below the waterline on the outside. You can tape the waterline and cover the remainder of the canoe with plastic. The tape and plastic might seem like alot of work, but believe me it saves lots of time scraping drips. You can cut the glass at the tape line ...
by Bassbug
Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:35 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Another joint question for the experts
Replies: 16
Views: 3718

Tom,
Use butt joints and save yourself the extra work.
I don't like the look of butt joints, so I will continue making them with my "scarf". Actually you spend very little time building the boat compared to its life, so the time I spend making joints on my strips is well worth it.