The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

I take a foam brush and trim it down with a sharp razor blade to fit the scupper's width and length. Works for me. Gotta keep after the drips though..

Dave

Anthony, I cut the strip ends about ¼ inch out from the inner stem as I stripped the canoe. When I was ready to trim the ends flush with the inner stem, I didn’t cut them with a saw, I sanded them down with 80 grit sandpaper. I hot glued the paper to a ½ inch plank 3 inches wide by about 2 feet long...

I'm wondering where the seat should go in my Rob Roy? How far back from the bow, or from amidships should the leading edge of the seat be? Can anyone advise?

Thanks, Dave

P.S. - some day it will get launched...

I'm no expert either, but just yesterday I finished caning a rectangular seat - easy hole layout - and the process is fresh in my mind... In Gil Gilpatrick's instructions, he focusses more on keeping the cane parallel as you go, skipping holes to keep it so. I would try to skip the same holes on eac...

My Freedom 17 had the same lines after I 'glassed it. I also used West System epoxy, and it was my first time fiberglassing too. I was pretty slow and deliberate about it. Maybe that was the problem..? Anyway, after a few years those "funky" lines have faded a bit. I thought you might like...

To add to what Randy said, if you taper the outer stem down to 3/8", and if you plan to install a 3/8" brass stem band, the end of the tapered outer stem (3/8") will be hidden under the stem band for a nice clean look.

Dave

pictures would help here, but I don't have any.

Pretty cool boat! It's refreshing to see something different being built. I hope you post pictures when you're finished. I also like your shop... If I didn't live so far away (Chicago area) I'd have to figure out a way to get myself invited over for a beer out of that fridge! :wink Have a good time ...

I would be careful with cutting those notches. Cut them as shown on the plans for the bow and stern molds: the "open" part of the notch should be below the shear line (towards the floor) with the top edge of the notch representing the actual shear line.
Have fun!

Dave

John, for an excellent description on how to mill perfect strips see John Michne's web site: http://www.michneboat.com/Making%20Strips.htm I have found his instructions and illustrations very helpful. Personally, I want my strips to bottom out. On my recent build, a Rob Roy, I milled my strips to .2...

Randy, have you considered weaving the seat yourself? I weaved (wove?) mine and really enjoyed the project and was very pleased the results too. I had never done it before but followed Gil Gilpatrick's instructions and it was easy. Just a thought.

Dave

I just got a monthly e-mail from Chesapeake Light Craft. They're touting a "Nonskid Flooring for Small Craft". You might want to have a look. It's 1/4" thick, UV resistant, selfadhesive, etc. I haven't seen this product but thought of this posting...

Dave

Hey Podunk, take a look at the "Uniwale" subject thread. I think the idea of seat backs and the like were discussed at length. You might find it helpful.

Dave

Mike, I used ratchet straps positioned at four stations. Instaed of using the ratchet mechanism, I hung weights (never over cranked the ratchet). Also, a small block of scrap tucked under the strap and just over the strip being glued helps press that strip against the form with just a bit more force...

I just read in the latest WoodenBoat magazine about a canoe built by Phillip A. Greene, the man who builds the Wood Song canoes. He built a canoe with ancient cypress, some of it possibly 130,000 years old, the youngest wood being around 25,000 years old. It took him fourteen months to bang it toget...

I recently spent a week paddling and fishing in Quetico. We used velcro straps to secure the rods during paddling (straps sold in bicycle shops to keep pant legs away from chain). These were convinient but left the rod tips exposed - we broke off two of three, and I was discusted about it. I thought...