The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

Actually, the + signs mean plus 1/32nd. If you look at the measurements there are a handful of them that are something like 9 5/16".

Also if you use rubber cemet, you will never get it off with out destroying it. Using spray on adhesive will make it easier if you need to pull it and reposition it.

Ok, now I got it. I am off work today, but its now RAINING. So I will do the work on the plans and if it stops go outside and start cutting them. I have already mounted the stem molds on the strong back. They sit 2" above the strongback. Am I to assume that these need to be taken down and have ...

The horizontial line that would be common would be the base line, so if I line up all of the patterns with the baseline, then draw my water line, this should put everything in place.

Yes, its starting to make sense. I have all of my paper station mols and have only cut out the stem molds so far, so I can line them all up as you said. I'll re-read this in the morning with a fresh mind and it will probably all finally "click" And yes, I am building the peterborough from ...

Ok, back to the initial problem.

So should I measure down and mark the water lines on the station molds and line them all up? Or run a string from stem to stem and make all of the molds line up with the string?

Thanks for all your help,.
Shawn

I did a test piece using only about 1/16"-1/8" tounge and groove so that it would have enough over lap, but still interlock. It seems to curve ok since there wasnt too much that interlocked. Just a tought I had. I figured it would be better that shiplap, and a lot better than square but jo...

Where can I get bead and cove router bits? I was also wondering if I could do a shallow toungue and grove set up to avoid the cost of the router bits.

thanks,
Shawn

How about just name it "JACK"

it will through every one off, then they will leave you alone because they think your crazy.

You could probably make a U shaped piece that would saddle the side of the canoe, line it with something soft, like felt, something simalar, but good with the water. Then put in some adjusable clamps like the trolling motor probably has, only with something soft on the end of them and clamp it inpla...

I just installed a bunch of 8 inch blocks verticale to the straongback, ran a stringline down the center of them to get my lines. Then drew lines with a level down from there. I added the blocks so I would have something to screw the molds to. Tommorow I start cutting the molds, or put the other boa...

anybody here today?

Ok, it is getting clearer. What I need to do is line up the water lines. I have the extra 2 inches on the stems so I am alright on that. I think that before I start cutting the molds out of the plywood, I will try and figure out where the waterline is on my posterboard patterns then add the extra le...

They are mushroom shaped, but only go 2 inches down from the sheer line, since that is what I thought I read in Canoe craft. Now that I know I am not crazy I can make them work. At least I have cut the plywood yet. I assume that I measure down 4" (the water line) and make my mark there and then...

So meausre down from the top of the mold to the water line and line them all up with that?