The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

In my previous 2 composite builds, I used the station molds strapped into the hull to hold the foam core down at 1' intervals. It worked fairly well but it does tend to pucker a bit between stations so I added some ceramic tiles I had laying around to keep it in place. Using the original wood hull w...

Here's a picture of the hull with the core being pressed in place: https://scontent.feau1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/75486045_10157096686812885_8956033103185313792_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_oc=AQm79L80Jo-xeUQFBMgDcNdqQDl05oLq_H1HHlxemOkvghY1ClscIHqCJeUCRStzGic&_nc_ht=scontent.feau1-1.fna&oh=3a...

I recognize "stripperguy" from another forum Jim pointed me to... You have some nice work there. I used 1/8" divicell in my previous build (actually 2 layers). I found it to be fairly thirsty on the epoxy and I ended up with a heavier core than I expected. the honeycomb I'm using now ...

The "plug" is a glassed Freedom 17 hull. After this boat is done, I'll finish that hull. I'll sand the outside of this new hull later. Maybe while the epoxy for the core is curing (see below). The inside of this hull is like glass. The heat shrink material is very smooth. Only a couple min...

I pulled the hull off the mold over the weekend...
https://www.facebook.com/randy.pfeifer. ... 22885/?t=0

Brian,

I'll be looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

Hey, wait a minute.... Cruiser, I thought you have already built the Freedom Solo (maybe twice)... You must have plans already (so telling you to buy plans is probably not a satisfying answer). Why do you need the lofting tables?

The Freedom Solo lofting table is not in the newest canoe craft. I'm not aware that they are available. As Sedges notes, the plans is the way to go. I had the privilege of meeting Steve Killing a month or so ago at the Bear Mountain Boats Rendezvous where I was displaying the Freedom Solo I had buil...

No need to open the stems on this hull. It will slide off the mold (no tumblehome or recurve on the stems on the Freedom 17). Release "agent" is Duck brand heat shrink plastic...

Funny Story: So I was standing in the park at the Bear Mountain Boats Makers Rendezvous in Westport Ontario a few weeks ago (9/14). I had brought along my Freedom Solo and a Carbon/Kevlar version of the Freedom 17 that I had built. It was great fun to talk to other builders (or lots of different thi...

Started a 3rd Carbon / Kevlar Freedom 17 yesterday. Changed the lay-up this time. I started with a layer of Carbon Fiber and then added a layer of Kevlar. It was a long day... I'm experimenting with a new core that might help save some weight. Also, will use Innegra on the inside... I put the final ...

As for your first question on station 8, you do need to account for the thickness of the stem mold when cutting those forms. I seem to recall a note on the plans to that effect. Proper sizing will result in a slight depression or concavity on the bow and stern of the Redbird as the strips approach t...

On your question about the thickness of your stem molds, yes, you will need to shape them to allow the stems to be shaped. Using thinner stem molds would have avoided that problem. Shape your stem molds now to ensure they won't get in the way when you start to shape your inner stems. Don't wait to s...

Yes Jim, I agree. that's a good tip!

I've mulled this a bit more and I'm guessing that those baseline notches are to mark the actual baseline. If you build your forms taller (some people want their build to be a bit higher for convenience - I always add a couple inches to my molds if my plywood allows the molds to still fit on 2 sheets...