The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

John - If you used a yellow PVA glue like Titebond or Elmer's, it will dry white (and weak) when it is used below about 50 degrees F. This is called the chalk point, below which the glue is less effective. On the filling, see my web site, http://michneboat.com . Scroll down the introductory page and...

Hi Jeff, and welcome to the brotherhood of woodstrippers. I do dry bending of 1/8" spruce using a heat gun. See my web site, http://michneboat.com for a complete illustrated description of how to do it. Scroll down the opening page and click on My Web Site, then Builder's Corner. There is a lis...

For Ed Auga – I just finished the epoxy work on a canoe, and won’t get to do a wet out on my next boat for quite a while. As for sanding between coats on my next one, it will be a question of timing. Having recently become a widower, I have the time (a trade off I would gladly have given up) to get ...

There has been some discussion here recently about the cure and recoat times of MAS epoxy, and also the perennial bubble questions. I was using a Newfound kit, with the included MAS epoxy, for the canoe building course I was teaching. I got a surprise when I mixed some glue for laminating a stem usi...

I like to consider the profile of the finished boat before deciding on how to strip it. Generally, if the stems rise from the water line and angle forward, it gives the boat a look of speed, and I lay the first strip following the sheer. For a boat with a recurved stem, the profile evokes a feeling ...

If you are stripping with the bead leading, or up, or exposed, consider the squeeze out of the glue when you glue the strips to the stem. Any squeeze out between the strip and the stem, once dried, will prevent the next strip from seating perfectly. I use a stick, about 1/4" x 1/2" sharpen...

Visible glue lines are the result of not having the strips fit together perfectly and then clamped securely their entire length while the glue dries. As for filling, see my web site. http://michneboat.com . Scroll down to the bottom of the opening page, click on My Web Site, then Builder's Corner. T...

Hi Arctic -

There is a decription of making and installing inwales and outwales on my web site, http://michneboat.com . Click on My Web Site at the bottom of the opening page, then Builder's Corner. Scroll down and click the Gunwales link.

I hope this helps.

Build on!!

- John

Z - See my web site, http://michneboat.com , for a detailed article about making strips. Scroll down to the bottom of the opening page, and click on My Web Site, then click Builder's Corner. There is a list of interesting and informative articles you may wish to read, including Making Strips. - John

The email I got from Bill at MLCS was dated November 29. In it, he said " Both sets should be available in about one month...." I don't expect mine to arrive until after the New Year.

- John

Mark - Don't use newspaper under the boat to catch drips. The epoxy soaks right through it, glueing it to the floor. Use cardboard instead. I have used the same pieces under three or four boats with no problems. The Fiberglassing 101 article on my web site, http://michneboat.com , may be of help to ...

To answer Ed Auger's question, I will stay with 1/4" strips, but use the 5/16" bead and cove. I have a bunch of 1/4" strips on hand already, probably enough for another boat if I didn't mind a loud color match. The 0.270" thick strips I am currently using are a one time thing - t...

I just received an email from MLCS about their making 5/16" diameter bead and cove router bits. Looks like the campaign started by ealger has borne fruit! Here is part of the email: "Good news. I decided to add the 5/16" flute and bead set to the MLCS product line. The 1/4" shank...

I also responded to the Newfound change in “standard” strips. See my post of October 17, Non-standard strip thickness. Newfound’s primary reason for incorporating the new design was to eliminate glue pockets in the normal 1/4" strips. That can be solved without going to the new design (stapless...

Don't those engineered beams have a slight crown in them? I may be wrong, but I seem to remember seeing something about how great they were for spanning long distances in house construction, but there was a definite top and bottom. They should make a great strongback, but be aware of a possible crow...