The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

Hi Dawn I would'nt go the woodburning route ! It will blacken and maybe burn the epoxy ! We used a magic marker, actually a "Sharpy" to make marks on a friends hull. and the epoxy did'nt bother it. He used West System epoxy. Even if the epoxy degraded the marker, you could easily scrape it...

Hi Dawne I'd try a magic marker, when it dries just brush a coat of epoxy over it. BUT ! TRY THIS ON A TEST STRIP ! To see if the epoxy will erod the ink !!! Good Luck !! Jim PS. Tell Hubby to make the door removable ! Building canoes is like riding a bike ! Once you learn how, you don't quit ! Nice...

Hi John Here in Iowa when we license a home built boat, over 13ft. We are issued a Coast Guard required serial # that needs to be permanently marked usually near the stern in 1/4in letters. It's best to do this before glassing, but a builder must do what they can. I know some omit this. Flotation is...

Hi Dawne Great job ! Nice photo gallery ! And I love the decks ! Just Too Cool ! Here in Iowa we are also forced to "DEFACE" a canoe with numbers and a license ! One thing I've done, is I have a sign shop here that makes great vinyl signs that are easy to put on and they stay. I even get t...

Nice job Jim !
I like your laminated thwarts.
Have had her in the water yet ?
I presume you paddle kneeling. How far astern is your back rest ?
Jim

Hi Dawne Stick with Ash, and scarf. Ash is better suited than maple because of the flex issue. Red Oak is poris[spell] and will split unless sealed very well. As for a supplier Ash should be available in Neb. Look for a local sawmill. Or do what I did. I took a nite woodworking class at school. Thro...

Hi John
Nice ideas ! I also like your clamping system.
Do you use regular glue, or is it specifically made for this process?
Jim

Try <www.snowshoe.com> I believe that's the web address. They're out of Minnesota. I've used their 1/2in nylon for years. It will out last your canoe ! Don't stretch it tight as when you saturate it with varnsh, it will shrink a little and harden.
Good Luck
Jim

By the way ! I want to also echo the Congratulations !
You will be SOO proud of yourself, when you first put the canoe to water !
It's truly a moving experience !
Great job !!!
Jim

Hi Dawn At the very least put a stick across the shearline. I always leave the middle form in, supported by a ratchet strap to hold the hull against the form. Sand each half til you get to the center, then remove the center form and finish sanding. This is to keep the hull true to shape ! The warmer...

Hi Dawn again !
Don't forget to keep the middle form in your canoe, to hold the shape of your hull while sanding. I've seem some near disasters !
Good luck.
Jim

Hi Dawn
How warm was your shop while glassing ?
And how did you apply the resin? With a roller ?
Jim

After you roll on your seal coat. Wait a half hour or so, and with a small 1in. foam brush go over your staple line with mixed epoxy. The extra coating really seals the holes, and virtually eliminates those pesky weep holes.
It works !
Good luck !
Jim

I've totally enjoyed this site !!!!
Glenn, You've done a great job ! You are a credit to the boat building world !
Thanks
Jim

You're welcome ! I know glassing is the scariest part of putting a canoe together ! If you can find someone close that has built one, it's a great comfort if they could help ! When I order supplies, I order a doz foam rollers this is usually enough for one hull. More tips. Order two gallons of resin...