The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

Hi Dawn RAKA has been a good supplier of cloth and epoxy. I'd give Larry the two thumbs up. Order the "Blush free" epoxy, I believe the 350. Larry is very helpful if you have ? As for cloth application. I go 6oz inside and out, and another 6oz layer on the outside bottom that covers up to ...

I have'nt read the whole post, but I have a suggestion. Loft the plans in the original form, take a copy to a print shop like Kinkos or such, and they can enlarge or reduce the plans by fractions of a percent. And your good to go, except for form spacing. That you'll have to do. I've done this a few...

I helped a friend build a tandem with half and half, redwood and WRC, it turned out great !

Redwood is a lot less odiferous than cedar. Seemed to be a little stiffer, and brittle.
I would have no trouble building a boat with redwood !!
Good luck.
Jim

Check Menards if you have one near by.
They carry 16ft. and allow you to sort !
Good Luck
Jim

I shutter to think of the money I would've spent buying strips instead of cutting my own ! I vote for cutting your own ! Not only from the monetary stand point, but the satisfaction you get from doing it yourself ! If you absolutely plan to build just one boat, go ahead and buy strips. But if there ...

I do that with my stem forms.
I just staple a scrap strip, and when I get to that point, just pull the staples.
I must confess, I learned that trick from the Minn. Canoe Assc.
Jim

Did you apply with a brush or a roller ? It sounds like over worked epoxy to me. There can be a lot of factors effecting this situation. I would squeege shortly after application. Once the epoxy has wetted out the cloth, and you've squeeged the excess, let it cure without disturbance. Good luck Jim

You should be fine !
The planks I always worked with had way more variation !!!
Good luck
Jim

Nothing wrong with an extra layer !
It will stiffen the hull, and add abrasion resistance, if put on the outside.
The extra cost and weight are the only downside.
I double layer my canoe bottoms !
Good luck
Jim

I for one have always run my strips BETWEEN the fence and the bit ! The biggest benefit is all of your strips will come out the same width. If you have PLANKS that vary in thickness, set your fence to the thinnest measure of your plank, run your strips between the fence and the bit, and your strips ...

You're in luck ! It should'nt be delaminating in the near future. As far as the blush, and whitish stuff, it would have to be sanded down to bar wood to repair. It sounds like an application issue. I'd probably give a light sand and go with a couple of coats of Epiphanes, or Z-spars "Captains c...

Do you mean Bandsaw blades ?
That's a good idea James !
Jim

I have always wondered what advantage you get from stripping with the bead up ?

It would seem to me that your glue would tend to run out when you tipped the strip over. Causing a lot of extra cleanup on the hull, besides leaving the join glue starved.
Jim

One quart should do it with some left over. That's figuring thee coats on the outside. and one or two in the hatch area.
My weapon of choice is a foam brush, unless you have access to good spray equipment.
Good Luck
Jim

First ?, is the hull built with polyester resin, or epoxy ? If it is an older boat, polyester was the norm. Then your probably looking at delamination. That means replacement of the glass. If it is epoxy, a lot of builders just put one coat of epoxy on the glass, to leave some traction inside. When ...