The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

Since you mention chart B I know you have an older version of CanoeCraft. I have two versions and neither one has the plot you mention. I believe with the older version that when two numbers are represented for one plot one indicates the distance off the base line and the other indicates the locatio...

The numbers you mention seem to match closer with the ranger , which is also a prospector model , is it 15 or 16 feet long ?

I was asked by the folks that run a music camp that my wife and youngest attend if I could do a canoe building workshop during camp. So starting Sunday before last we set up the mold and proceded to build. We finnished in 5 days. I couldn't be more pleased that everything went so well .... Except .....

You are right. Lacuer thinner could be used as well. The idea is to use a dampened cloth, not to wet the hull to much. I use white shop towels folded in quarters , this gives me 8 seperate clean surfaces to work with .

Yes you can , I have done it alone more often then with help. You will be busy , and I sugest you read Ted Moores instructions in CanoeCraft very carefully and several times. Having a mixer makes a big difference though. But if your like me I want to mix so I know it is right , and i want my hand on...

There are some builders that recomend using larger bits so that the cove will be shallow. Claiming that the strips will hold together better on tight curves. I just used 1/4 " bits to do 3/16" strips , havn't stripped the hull yet so can't comment how well it works.

Well you may be heavy for a strpper but your still lighter than plastic and probably even a pound or two lighter than the same boat done in fiberglass. Maybe not a tripper , but you look to have found a nice place to play. Looks nice in the water.

I think what Glen says is good advice , and maybe Rod will have more for you . This could be patched up quick enough for your trip. You could leave the varnish for later. You will be surprised at how well a patch will blend. I have done two to repair damage and I can no longer find them.

Looking good Tim, nice to see you back on the forum . I have been layed off for quite a while myself , so much time to build , but hard to spend the money.

My first few builds all had scarf joints on both inwale and outwale. I centered them with the thwart and drilled them with no problems. To me the bolts from the thwart distract from the scarf joint. If your joints are done correct tthe whole piece can be used any way you would have if you started wi...

I am so envious ! You do nice work.

If you want to stain strips before epoxy is added the stain should be water or alcohol based according to Nick Schades Building Strip-Planked Boats. Oil base stains will interfere with the bond between wood and epoxy. There is a whole chapter on staining in that book.

Great job , Denis , did you do it on your own or as a group. You got to have the best retirement plan in Lakefield.

Sure not shiny new like we see here usually. i am guessing that you need to get all of the old glass off . The hole can be patched with new strips. If the wood is sound a new cover of epoxy and cloth.This could likely be a boat made with polyester resin. polyester does not bond well with wood.You co...

you could use 4 oz or 6 oz , it all depends on who is going to paddle it. With 4 oz a little more care will be required when using the boat. There is not a huge savings in weight. In kayakcraft the estimate is 3-4 lbs.Putting 6 oz on the outside of the hull might not be bad idea.