The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

Sorry Glen!
Thanks for the disclaimer!

When ever tools, wether they are power or hand tools, caution should be exercised!

As Norm says.
Read and follow the manufacturers instructions. And always wear safety glasses!

Jim

Were your boards "Slash cut" or "Quarter sawn" ? If they were quartersawn, you might be out of luck. We just Beaded and coved strips for a friend, one of his planks was quartersawn, after trying about 4 strips, we gave up! When ever you machine strips, a certain amount will be fl...

Hi Steve I know you're about to wrap up discussion on the new design. Reflecting on canoes that I've sold and wished I had back! One being a Hiawatha, from the earlier Canoecraft. Though I set this canoe up as a tandem, I really enjoyed paddling it solo! Many times, thought to build this design, as ...

Hi All I'll climb on board with the stemless gang! This is as strong a method as there is, and easier to build to boot! If one wants a traditional look, an outer stem can be laminated on, without screws! A brass stem band is cool to look at, but with too many short comings! I don't mean to step on t...

Hi Roscoe Found a staple puller made by Stanley-Bostitch, it is a real quality tool! A friend put me on to it. Cost about $10. Check with an Office supply store, or catalog. I wish I had a picture! It's chrome, spring loaded, and the blade that slides under the staple is thin, but strong! I hope you...

Hi Roscoe I've always felt using the bead and cove method, that massive amounts of glue for stripping was unnecessary. All you need is enough glue to hold the strips in place until you are finished sanding the outside hull. When you apply the seal coat of epoxy this will soak into the voids of the B...

Hi Joan The why? I saw my first stripper being built at Mid West Mountaineering's, Spring sale. I think in 1989! Members of the Minnesota Canoe Assc. were stripping up, I believe a Merlin, a Bruce Kunz design! I would walk by and watch. The more I watched, the more I knew that this was something I c...

Hi Roscoe
I bought the 1/4in shanks, back in the early 90's. I bought a set more recently, also 1/4in shank, they were the same height, but I haven't used them yet.
Check your strips often, if they were cut uniform you'll be pleased with the results!
Good Luck!
Jim

Sounds good!
There always seems to be a lot of variables that can cause problems.
Good Luck!!!!
Jim

Out gassing that I've experienced is air that was trapped in the wood, between strips or in the staple holes. Reducing room temperature as Glenn states, does solve this problem!! Has anyone been concerned about sanding uncured epoxy? What I've read was it takes up to 7 days for a complete cure, at w...

My first set of B&C bits came from MLCS, and after cutting strips for nearly 20 canoes, I'm still using them! I would buy the two bit set. Instead of having to adjust the router, just change the bit, they should both be the same height. Mine are set in two different routers, but I only run one a...

Hi Mike Using the BMB system for the 15 Bobs Special, how far {from the bow} would the front seat be? This dimension should also work on the 16 ft stretch. Also use this method with the stern seat, except measure from the stern to the front edge of the stern seat. What it would be on the 15 should w...

Hi Ed
Your right about the bubbles!
I should've inquired about the epoxy brand you were using!
I use System Three's Clear Coat, and have not encountered the pin hole problem!
What caused the bubbles?
Jim

Hi Ed A trick I learned about applying several epoxy coats is, put the first wet out coat on, let it cure,or almost cure, typically 4 hours, or more. Then apply the second coat. While the second coat is still in the tacky stage, 2 to 3 hours, apply the third coat, and so on. The tackinees will keep ...

Try a foam roller the next time.