The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

That looks great!

Basically what you do, is to form a groove for the outer stem to fit tightly in, and take this groove down to flush with the top of the inner stem. Once it is installed, you need to take the stem down a lot while you fair it to the hull, probably removing 2/3's of the material. A spokeshave is your ...

I had a couple failures steam bending my cherry stems, and ended up doing a method similar to Randy. I first laid out the strips in the order I wanted them, drilled a 1/4" hole in on end outside of the used length, put a 1/4" dowel through this hole, and then with them separated a bit, I s...

I think it would have more to do with the design of the canoe, and how you ran the strips. One the hull I stripped, I used 3/4" planks (5/8" effective coverage after applying the bead and cove), and in some places where I had to twist, curve and bend a lot to fit it to the stem, and was th...

I like the look of those. Great idea that I have not seen before.

I bet they would leave a nice print on your butt too.

Hoping all goes well, and that you are able to get the operation, complete with healing bones afterward, and recover to a healthier situation.

Looks great, much feel real good to get it done. :)

John, I just had that too. I had to do a full sand after the second coat because Christmas got in the way before I could carry on with the final coat without sanding. For me, it was a good opportunity to feather out the extra football layer, and the additional stem layers. I was left with a few spot...

It looks great, Alex. Well done.

The seats are very interesting. What is the story behind them?

That looks great, Randy. You seem to have got it done pretty quick too.

One thing you can do if the bead and cove is not cut yet, is to decide beforehand what side will be on the inside of the hull and mark this. If you then mill all your strips with this side down, they will fit nice on the moulds, with all the variations on the outside. This would be relatively easy t...

I considered using engineered wood too, as I have lots left over from jobs I have done, but in the end built pretty much the standard strongback out of the Canoe Craft book. If using engineered joists, I would attach at least an 8" wide piece of 3/4" ply top and bottom as they have very li...

Looking forward to seeing the progress, Randy.

If that joint you show with the red line is well glued up, I would think that the fiberglass would give the hull all the strength it needs. This is no different strength wise than the joint along the bottom, or those used for some of the fancy inlays done.

That looks great.