The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

MrKim, that is really cool! What did you use to cut or groove the deck? I did an overlay for my kayak, just a small maple leaf. Since it is small, the overlay is not an issue imo. http://shmish.smugmug.com/photos/475643401_KHEDG-S.jpg Here is a link to some really nice and fancy overlay: http://dash...

Thanks Randy. Lately in similar situations I have tried to avoid smoothing out. I find that it helps push or bleed the epoxy under the tape. It is very easy to scrape (or sand) the unsmoothed epoxy after it has hardened. Often times the epoxy needs to be smoothed or coaxed into the gap though. cheers

I have several small gaps between my outwale and strips. They are maybe 1mm wide, with a few that are 2-3mm. The gaps don't go all the way through, it's just the top 3 or 4mm I'm guessing. I can't decide whether to try and fill them with straight epoxy or thickened epoxy. Either will work okay, I th...

I made tapered dowels this morning. I started with a piece of wrc about 3/4" square. I used a xacto knife and a rasp to shape the dowel, it probably took about 5min per dowel.

I thought about leaving the binding off. I kind of thought it looked better without the binding, my wife thought it was better with. 2 against 1 (wife & Gilpatrick vs. me). Even without the binding I have cane pegged in the corners with no adjacent cane to loop under for a simple knot.

Thanks Tim, no complaints from me. I just hope it doesn't unravel :) Any ideas on where or how to get or make softwood pegs? All I can think of is to put a piece of wrc in my drill and have a friend hold the button while I run a rasp on the wood to taper the peg. I can't imagine it would make the be...

Here is one of my seats with the caning finished, other than replacing the corner pegs with pegs made of a softwood. http://shmish.smugmug.com/photos/610776817_3ZxVf-M.jpg The flash photo makes the varnished wood look all washed out, but in reality the cherry frame is quite nice (if I may say so mys...

Hi, I'm putting the binding cane on my seats and I find that it is difficult to get the canoe to have a nice tight setting knot on these last pieces. Since some of the end holes already have two knots on them, the third knot from the binding sits over top and floats a bit. Pulling tight doesn't seat...

Pretty sweet Steve!

I'm about to leave for a camping trip and I thought I'd bring a seat frame with me along with cane so I can lounge around the campsite drinking beer and work on my canoe all at the same time. I have the cane, scissors/snips, pegs, seat frame, and Gilpatrick's book. I thought I could also bring a pai...

How fine a grit should I use for finishing my cherry seat frames prior to varnish/urethane? Right now they are at 80 grit. Can I go to 180? Or 120 then 220?

Is there a preferred tool for final sanding? I put my belt sander to great use initially, I think the ROS leaves some swirly marks.

thanks

Thanks guys. I went with equal length, I have the decks glued but not shaped yet.

For asymmetrical hulls, from what you have seen is better to have decks that are equally long, or equally wide? I'm thinking it would be nicer to keep the length the same, although perhaps it wouldn't matter.
cheers

No worries Selwyn.

For others that come across this thread, this is how I see the useability of the 1678.
pro: easier to drape and conform to shape
neutral: just as easy to wet out
con: if you are using 2 layers then it is of course more difficult to work with 2+ layers at once.

It may not be your cup of tea, but maybe this thread will interest you: http://bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2/vie ... light=1678

You'd have to drive to the border though. Pros: very inexpensive, strong. Cons: honestly I can't think of any but I guess there are some.