The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

Lookin good but for my money, I would have put a radius at each corner of the scuppers. For structural strength, a sharp corner is to be avoided, hence the radius. Ninety degree corners are never recommended for strength, always round, filet, fill, curve, etc. IMHO :wink :wink :wink Maybe, but I li...

I glued the gunwales on today. I decided to use ash (because I had a bunch of 3/4x in the garage) for the inwales and cedar for the outwales. I went with cedar for the color, but also because I want to see how well a softwood will hold up as outwales. The hull is extremely stiff with the carbon fibe...

I don't think so, because I used dye before. This build is outside, so I suspect that it's a moisture things, because it would disappear and reappear during the day.

I haven't built one, but I own all the books on the subject that I could find. I like Building the Maine Guide Canoe the best. Here's the link to the book at Amazon: http://amzn.to/oRZId7 I also own The Wood and Canvas Canoe by the same author. If you can find it cheap enough, you should buy that, t...

I did and that seemed to make the warping worse. So, I removed them. I think the stiffness difference between the 3/16 and 1/8 strips is making the issue worse. After I glass the inside, I'll put them back in.

This is an interesting first for me. My hull warped like crazy. I think it's the 1/8- by 1.5-inch strips. I tried to pull it back together with the forms, but that made it worse, so I clamped on gunwales and it pulled everything into place and then I sanded the inside and removed the gunwales. I wen...

Sure. That looks like it would work fine. You could tarp both ends when needed.

Bugs, rain, wind. It wasn't fun. If I were to do it again, I'd build a frame for a tarp building and do it inside that.

I couldn't find any Elmer's in town, so whatever their competition was. I like Elmer's better, because it seemed to clean up better. I think you see some in the dye, but some of that is because I didn't use bead and cove and the dye has a hard time penetrating the cracks.

Here's a better view of the color. http://www.paddlinglight.com/shared/hansel_bryan_110830-20.jpg A couple of problems: 1. Bugs!!!!! The bottom is pretty bad, so that's probably going to get painted black. 2. Bugs!!!!! 3. Moisture from dew turned the epoxy milky the night after I fiberglassed. Lucki...

I'm sure you could use a staple-less method. I'd probably do the stem like Gilpatrick during the build and then cut it back to add the outer stem. There's probably other ways too. To stop the stem from sticking to the form, you just use tape in exactly the same way you do on the other stations. Here...

I vote to leave the inner stems out. You don't really need them. Just bevel the edge of the stem form and lay strips directly against it.

The Darth Canoe is dyed and fiberglassed. I used Lee Valley dyes: 2 parts walnut, 1 part cherry. I coated it twice and crossed my fingers that it would be dark enough. I nailed it!

Many bugs died in making this canoe.

Block planed and faired with a fairing board. Now onto the tedious random orbital sander. The 1.5" boards were hard to plane. I had to resort to a hobbyist plane to get the edges even. Luckily, I was careful when I aligned the edges, so I didn't need to do much. http://www.paddlinglight.com/sha...

If you only have one strip on each side, pull it off and fix the problem. You'll be happier in the long run.