Search found 387 matches

by ealger
Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:29 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: 1" Finishing Nails vs Staples
Replies: 13
Views: 4453

No Nails

Bill, this subject has been discussed here at length and each builder has his/her own method and reason for building a canoe in the first place. Some like to get on the water fast and others enjoy the journey getting to the lake. Here's a few pictures of my stapleless journey: http://s12.photobucket...
by ealger
Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:02 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: 1" Finishing Nails vs Staples
Replies: 13
Views: 4453

Nails

Bill, have you cut and mounted your molds yet?
Ed..
by ealger
Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:40 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Gunwale prep
Replies: 10
Views: 3692

Gunwales

Hello Mack. I believe what you are refering to is the method to build a scuppered inwale by fitting blocks of wood to a "base" strip. John Michne has a fine page explaining this: http://michneboat.com/Gunwales.htm The process of "primeing" the blocks is to ensure that the joint i...
by ealger
Sat Nov 03, 2007 10:54 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Gluing the Gunwales
Replies: 6
Views: 2652

Gunwales

Rudy, here's a few pictures that might help.
Epoxy is pretty slippery and it takes some creative clamping to hold the inwale/outwale in place without screws. This is especially true near the stem ends.
Ed...

http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a237/ ... /?start=80
by ealger
Fri Nov 02, 2007 10:25 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Strongback Cutting Diagram
Replies: 5
Views: 2796

Strongback

John, by now you're probably already under way with your strongback. It's convenient to have the strongback about 2 feet shorter than the hull (1 foot on each end) to allow some working room under the shear line at the stems. It's nice to have the extra room when drawing down excess epoxy in laying ...
by ealger
Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:02 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: 3/4" MDF for mold stations?
Replies: 11
Views: 3609

Clamping

Lee, fairing is simple. You're right in that the fairing progresses as you go further towards the stem area. Use a strip and bend it around the molds from zero to the stem mold to gauge what is needed to remove. Use a wood rasp, sanding block, ROS, etc. First take a magic marker and run it along the...
by ealger
Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:29 am
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: 3/4" MDF for mold stations?
Replies: 11
Views: 3609

Clamping

Lee, I cut the clamping grooves on my router table using a 1/4" spiral cutter and working against the fence. If you don't have a router table, you could attach a wood block to the router face and use that for a guide. If the groove is a little "wavey" it won't hurt. Glen mentioned the...
by ealger
Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:20 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: 3/4" MDF for mold stations?
Replies: 11
Views: 3609

Clamping

Lee, I have been using 1/2" MDF for my molds with good success. http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a237/ealger/Clamping/ I route the clamping groove 1/4" wide, 1/4" deep and 5/8" from the reference edge. Remove one of plastic protectors on the spring clamp to fit into the groove. ...
by ealger
Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:49 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: hmm, when to sand? Kinda lost here.
Replies: 14
Views: 3345

scraping

Dan, the crescent blade is great for scraping the inside of the hull. When you turn the hull over, you'll find glue and some epoxy that has dripped through any cracks. The glue and the epoxy will take the edge off the blade fast. It will be necessary to find the sharpening method that works for you....
by ealger
Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:36 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: hmm, when to sand? Kinda lost here.
Replies: 14
Views: 3345

Glassing etc.

Dan, your experience is why we build at least 3 canoes! :smile My experience with added bias strips is as Glen has stated. No matter how hard I try, the edges on bias strips need some attention. Some have said that a layer of plastic film layed over the fresh epoxy will produce a smooth transition. ...
by ealger
Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:51 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Wood grain of Planking Strips
Replies: 10
Views: 5312

Scrapers

Sluggo, the scraper mentioned is a great tool on flat work. The cutting edge requires a lot of attention to get the edge rolled over properly. The edge wouldn't last long if used to clean up glue and epoxy drips. My tool of choice for starting the cleanup of the hull outside is the ProProp (pro mode...
by ealger
Sat Jul 28, 2007 2:26 pm
Forum: Boat-Building Tips & Techniques
Topic: Table Saw Safety
Replies: 3
Views: 8807

Table Saw Safety

With all the comments about table saw usage, I thought this might be appropriate. It's a must read at least once a year: Ed... Two Dozen Table Saw Safety Tips From: Woodcraft Page 1 of 2 Table saw safety is extremely important to woodworkers because most woodworkers who use power tools use table saw...
by ealger
Mon Jul 23, 2007 11:15 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: New member
Replies: 30
Views: 7114

Strip milling

Will, good to see you starting a new adventure! Glen mentioned the 5/16" radius cutters available from MLCS. These cutters produce a shallow-er cove and produce a less fragile edge as Glen mentioned. If the strips are milled to .275" rather thatn .250", the cove depth can be adjusted ...
by ealger
Sun Jul 15, 2007 7:08 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Gunwales
Replies: 4
Views: 2062

Gunwale screws

Geir, you will find some pictures of my Ranger here: http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a237/ealger/Ranger15/?start=100 It sounds like you glued on the inwales and outwales just using clamps and no screws. If you did, you accomplished a great feat. From my perspective, if you are worried about the ou...
by ealger
Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:50 pm
Forum: Builders' Forum
Topic: Varnish/Urethane and Thinning
Replies: 5
Views: 1882

Varnish

I've used several varnishes for different projects with mixed success when it comes to runs and drips. However, on my canoes I've only used HMG varnish with their recommended thinner adding 10%. I've never had problems with HMG running or sagging. I apply with 3" foam brushes. Also HMG K type i...