The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

I'm planning on 2 people or around 400-500lbs maximum

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m485/DonsJ/199145_10150224717898709_688698708_9219519_4471615_n.jpg http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m485/DonsJ/205641_10150224647913709_688698708_9218922_4886523_n.jpg http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m485/DonsJ/205271_10150224648208709_688698708_9218925_6...

Thats a nice net, Glen.

I got out in the shop and experimented with a few strips today. The oak and cedar both bent quite nicely.

A few weeks ago I was in Mackinaw City and I picked up a few landing net replacements cheap. Now I get to design and build some laminated wood nets for this spring's fishing trips. I have a good of red oak, cedar and white pine to work with Has anyone here ever made one? Any tips on wood species, de...

If you have a table saw, why not use it for strips? You don't need a really great table saw to rip cedar strips. I have a cheapo ($99) 10" bench saw that I used for two canoes. I got it as a present so it's what I use. If you can set it so the blade stays square to the table and get the fence t...

I'd use a guide bushing on the router and a template made of thin plywood or something similar.
Make the template the same shape as your cane insert, only smaller to allow for the offset of the bushing.

I used plastic autobody filler applicators to apply the filler and scrape away all the excess before it set up. I used red cedar on that canoe, so the brown filler blended nicely and filled all the staple holes, gaps, open grain, and a few loose knorts. The idea was to cover the entire hull so it wa...

I think that internet forums are sort of a 21st century version of a "moaning chair".

It's neat how things usually tend to work themselves out.
If it takes a few extra hours, it's not really a bad thing. Time in the shop is my relaxation time.

Thanks for the replies I have lots of strips left so i'll laminate two layers of 1/4 inch strips together with the the strips in the second layer at 45 degrees to the first then fiberglass/ epoxy on both sides. I plan to have a fairly stout keel on this boat, so i think a knee tying it to the transo...

You'll be fine. On my last canoe, I made a fairly stiff filler out of epoxy thickened with maple wood "flour" and spread it over the hull fairly thickly, then I went back and scraped the excess off as smoothly as i could. It just needed a light sanding afterwards, and I had it sealed and f...

I've designed an 11.5' square stern canoe to haul on the racks on an ATV to get into some very small remote lakes for fishing. It's similar in dimensions to a Peterborough autoboat or a sportpal/Radisson wide transom. 11'5 feet long. maximum beam is 39" and centre depth is about 12". the t...

You may want to check out an air exchager.
I found that a dehumidifier did not make a noticeable difference in my garage. Mine's 28x28 with two vehicles usually parked inside.

Here's my canoe. White Guide from Gilpatrick's book. Western Red cedar with ash and red oak woodwork. It took me about two months from start to finish. I used Raka epoxy and cloth. This is addictive! I'm already planning my next one http://garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=68012&am...

I used a set of bead and cove bits that I got on ebay when i built my canoe. They were under $25 CDN with shipping for a set of carbide bits. I wasn't expecting much, but they performed fine and they seem like they will last for quite a few more canoes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ROUTER-BITS-FLUTE-BEAD-CAR...

If it was my canoe, I'd clean away the sticky stuff, sand lightly, and touch it up with a bit of varnish.
Full repairs can wait till the end of the season. Right now its time to be on the water!
For repairs during a trip, duct tape is all you need.