The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

Sorry, I didn't realize you were working on an Endeavour. Yes, that should be 0-05-6.

The corrections are here: http://bearmountainboats.com/2012BACKUP ... estems.htm

I just used my yellow wood glue. I cut my blocks so that I would be gluing face grain to the hull strips, this makes it easy to shear off the blocks with a sharp chisel when you remove the hull from the forms. Don't forget to remove the screws that hold the blocks to the forms.

I have bought long cedar boards from Langevin-Forest in the past.
http://www.langevinforest.com/

I have used the block method before and it worked well. Predrill a hole in the blocks so you can drive a screw through the hole and into a form. You screw the block to the form only after the glue holding the block to the hull has dried.

No problem with 3/4 X 3/4.

It is not easy to see the extent of the damage with such small pics. Please post some larger ones.

Foam floaters attached to the hull won't prevent capsizing. If you mean the foam floaters on aluminium tubes that support the foam a few feet from the hull, those work well but are ugly as you say. I suggest paddling in a kneeling position until you have become accustomed to the tenderness of the Hi...

I don't know how I missed this one. It is a real beauty!

Looks great Brian ! Isn't that a good feeling?

If this will be your first build, making modifications may not be the best thing to do. I suggest you choose a design for its comfort, capacity and performance rather than by the looks.

I apply the varnish according to Ted's application technique but the similarity ends there. I use Epifanes and dilute it about 10% with Epifanes brushing thinner. I use a 3" quality foam brush. When the first coat is no longer tacky I apply coat number 2 without sanding. When the second coat is...

You're making good progress, Randy.

Very nice work Alick !

She is a beauty!