The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

My Redbird is complete, and I am very pleased with how it turned out. I couldn't have done it without the expert, generous help from the members of this forum. Thanks to all who replied to my posts.


[ img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/nTs6ySwc9MemDMJ19[ /img]

Jim: I don't know what S-glass is. I made my hull with western red cedar, 6 lb. fiberglass cloth, and West System epoxy- 105 resin and 207 hardener. Stephen: I do use the preview button prior to posting my pictures. Once they showed up, but people on the forum indicated they couldn't see them. The b...

Yes Stephen, I was able to post the link while not using the brackets also.

Thanks to all for your help.

Now, the links are appearing, but no images. And, I inserted a space after each bracket, as Brian showed in his post, in order for the link to appear. Please let me know if the links work. I would still like to know how to post a picture directly into a post. [ img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/i1DjiHgU...

Brian: I am following the instructions you posted exaclty to post pictures.

I couldn't see the pictures on my last try either. How about this:



[imghttps://photos.app.goo.gl/pzEyXct5qrvGKKzk8][/img]

Ok, I'll try again.

I can see the pictures on my post. I thougt I correctly copied the URL using the post an image icon above. I'll try again. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R8vmmUlW8234cQzQNWOnSBOS7Z0y1XBJbG2CIZ62SFqWSJ0PRn_sF0t7LqV9OBGNrggDc_Aqu4MJcu14Wju0f1ulCsh0bFHlXdf4cw9n9ZeND37K9hFLcuYw0Anb1ffvCcwMNRbC2GivzIx...

While floating last weekend, I hit a sharp rock and damaged the hull. The picures show 2 punctures of the fibergalss layer and a long scrape. The first picture shows damage through to the wood, the second picture shows a scrape to the fiberglass, and the third picture shows an indent. What is the re...

Thanks Randy. I've used Epifanes before and I have had trouble with runs. But, it sure looks good. I recall using a 10-20% thinking ratio for the final coats.

Also, thanks for the picture posting directions. Just in time for my project completion.

Thanks, Randy. The more I looked at it, the better it looked the way it is. If I plane some of the top of the outer gunwale off, I think the outer surface which is now 5/16 in. would be too thin. I'm in the process of varnishing now with only the stem bands remaining. I assume as Ted states, install...

My outwales are successfully installed. Again, thanks for the sugggestiions. The dragons teeth worked well. As the 4th picture in the link below shows, the inwales and outwales do not creat a flat top surface. I would like you opinon on weather or not you would take a plane to the outwale to make th...

It worked! Tapering in the vertical axis reduced the stiffness to the point where I belive I can epoxy and clamp without steaming. I tapered the top surface from 1/2 in. to 5/16 in. I also like the look.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

I was going to cut the long strip for the dragons teeth from a large piece of plywood or particle board and match the curve of the sheer line. When I tapered the outwale in the horizontal, I went from 9/16 in. wide to 5/16 in. at the bow and stern. Now, when I taper the vertical dimension, I will ta...

Jim: I agree with the comment that as Canoecraft shows, the gunwales are a bit large. My sense of design is to have lighter lines and trim. So, my outwales are 3/4 in high (against the hull), 9/16 in. wide on top, and 1/2 in. on the outside. As I have stated, I thinned the inside of the 3/4 in. dime...