The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

I've seen it done as well, but on concrete countertops. The guy just used a GFCI on his extension cord.

Ruso

Randy, the tape is only a temporary thing to help me hold strips in place while I cinch them with the fishing line. I thought about tape only system after using them in combo, but in some cases I need the fishing line to pull the strip tight to the form. I installed once accent last night and hope t...

Randy, thanks for the reply. I figured that you didn't want it hidden by the gunwales, but that I wanted it above the waterline so it sounds like I'm on track. I just put on the third strip so I think I'll add my three accent strips next. I've been using the fishing line method and here are a few ob...

I've just laid a couple of strips on the canoe and I'm starting to think about when to add my accents. The first strips follow a gentle curve that CanoeCraft talks about so to avoid the compound bends I'd run into. They're 7/8" inch strips and my accent strips are 1/2" and I have three of ...

Well, thanks to everyone who replied. The bow sounds like it is right on now after adjusting the mould so it was correctly centered. I fixed the sterm mould after I realized station moulds 16 were out of whack. I've ripped all my strips and have them beaded since we last talked. I'm all setup to do ...

Glen, sorry I guess I didn't know what you meant by fine entry line. So I should be making the strips conform to this mould then?

Mac, I guess I don't know the answer to that question as it simply isn't covered in the plans. I'd need another 17"9' builder to help out I guess.

Rick was right about the bow stem mould, but that only succeeded in making it 1/4" off on both sides of the canoe (consistency is good right?). The front edge was centered and the back was off slightly hence the error. Glenn, I'll try your suggestion of moving it fore and aft to see if the 1/4 ...

So the strongback is about level as I can get it, but the garage floor isn't level. I ran two lines down the length of the strongback to establish a reliable centerline and then the moulds were centered on this and then I used the stringline method attached to the stem moulds. I went back out and I ...

I can try and get some pics posted if you think it would help, but it's pretty much like I described it. The batten just doesn't hit molds 1 and 15 by about a half inch on the one side of the canoe. The bow and stem molds are MDF and I just checked them with a carpenters square and they're not warpe...

Canoe Gods...forms 1 and 15 on my Freedon 17'9" are way off. The plans say nothing about them being half molds like numbers 0 and 16, but that's almost how it looks like I screwed up. They're currently butted up against the stern and bow molds and when I lay a batten to check for fair curve I'm...

Hey there, I'm almost to the point where I'm going to start stripping a Freedom 17'9" with Butternut (Aspen and Walnut will be my accent stripes). Even though it's technically a hardwood it's more akin to pine in regards to actual hardness and therefore sands just fine for me. I've built a shak...

Funny you bring the subject up as I too am contemplating using this type of wood. I think it's a fine choice based on its weight characteristics and how it machines. It doesn't rate highly in other areas like holding nails or compression and decay. Check out this link... http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/Te...