The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

If the bolt extends below the nut perhaps 1/4", file 2 flats on the end of the bolt bolt to accept a wrench (cresent type would work).
Ed...

Bill, my first attempt at epoxy/fiberglass was "interesting" but not a total loss. The one thing that had me hung up was the statement about how to drag the squeege. This document cleared this up for me: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/16/fiberglassing.html Under the heading "Using th...

Mack, Black Walnut is hard and heavy. It would be very durable if sealed properly. Walnut can have a lot of figure and you might try and select pieces that are fairly straight grained to avoid weak areas. Sealed over with 3 coats of epoxy and a few coats of varnish would prove to be a strikeing addi...

Jeff have a look at John Michne's excellent info on this subject: http://michneboat.com/Shaping%20the%20Stems.htm Make a couple of his sanding sticks which are strips of plywood with 60 grit paper glued on one end. I have made 2 strips from 3/8" ply 1" wide and the other 1.5" wide wit...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a237/ealger/Abenaki/DSC_1151_1.jpg Walnut bends nicely. Try and select straight grain if you can, free of any knots. This picture is of the outer stem of Ash and Walnut. Also if you soak and/or steam, try and alternate the direction of the grain as the strips may s...

My Father-In-Law was a professonal cabinet maker. At home his garage was dedicated to a wood shop in which he had a nice table saw, shaper, and a ShopSmith. The ShopSmith was setup as a disk sander and I never saw him use it for anything else. It took up a lot of floor space for a sander. His compla...

Dan, we don't know where you are located, but Wood Craft has a 3/8" cutter that would work. If you didn't like it, they will accept its return.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?fa ... tid=830818
Ed...

Dan, see this link to my Ranger. I've a sequence on plug cutting and other photos on outwale fitting. The bit is a taper plug cutter. I cut a lot of plugs in Cherry and never had them burn using this bit. As it has been mentioned, a drill press is a must. After the plugs are cut, I cover the plugs w...

Your station 0 may be 14" lofted to the shear but you'll have to add a base length to raise all the molds above the strong-back for working room. The water-line on each mold will be parallel to the strong-back. If I'm not in error, the water-line on the stem mold will determine the base to add ...

I went through the lofting of my Prospector for the experience. It was a long arduous task for me and Glen helped me through some troubled areas. Then I purchased the plans and was happy I did. I found there were differences in the mold outlines and the shape of the stems. Plus, I had the benefit of...

Mel, here's a picture of my Prospector inner stem roundover:

Ed...

Ruso, I didn't mean to be condescending at all. For me, I enjoy the technical part of canoe building more than the paddling. Wierd hud? I'm sure which ever method you pick, it'll come out just fine. Post some pictures. We'd like to see them.
Ed...

Ruso, craftsmen of old never knew of dedicated machines to fit mortice and tenons. If you're willing to settle for straight, right angle joints, the tenons can be cut on a table saw with some careful cutting. The mortice can be cut with a 5/16" forstner bit and cleaned up with a chisle as Glen ...

The mortice and tenon is tried and true. Make the joint a nice slip fit as not to squeeze out all the epoxy.
http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a237/ ... tor=bottom
Ed...
PS: For a little extra show, add a rosewood round peg at each joint.

Dan, the other option is to install an eyebolt. I know some think that this option is crude but some also think cutting a hole in a perfectly good hull is heresy. This picture is not very good but gives an idea. [img][img]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a237/ealger/Abenaki/DSC_1311.jpg[/img][/img]...