Hull Repair

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WMegl
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri

Re: Hull Repair

Post by WMegl » Wed Jun 12, 2019 7:40 pm

Yes Stephen, I was able to post the link while not using the brackets also.

Thanks to all for your help.
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Jim Dodd » Wed Jun 12, 2019 9:28 pm

Wayne ? Is that S-glass ?

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

Stephen
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Stephen » Thu Jun 13, 2019 12:10 am

I figured out how to post your pictures using Internet Explorer. In your photo album, left click on the image to enlarge, then right click and select Properties. Highlight and copy the URL from the Properties window, then paste this into your forum post between img /img

However, when I tried the same procedure with Microsoft Edge it wouldn't work. It looks like the method may vary from one web browser to another.

BTW if you use the Preview button on the Edit Post page, you can check at the top of the screen to see if images are posting and to test if hyperlinks are working properly, before you press the Submit button.

Image

Image

Image
Last edited by Stephen on Sat Jun 15, 2019 6:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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WMegl
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri

Re: Hull Repair

Post by WMegl » Thu Jun 13, 2019 3:38 pm

Jim: I don't know what S-glass is. I made my hull with western red cedar, 6 lb. fiberglass cloth, and West System epoxy- 105 resin and 207 hardener.

Stephen: I do use the preview button prior to posting my pictures. Once they showed up, but people on the forum indicated they couldn't see them. The best I could do was successfully post the URL.

I am now trying your method.

[ img]C:\Users\wmegl\Google Drive\CS dam'g[ /img]
[ img]C:\Users\wmegl\Google Drive\CS dam'g[ /img]
[ img]C:\Users\wmegl\Google Drive\CS dam'g[ /img]

It doesn't look like it works. I can't see a picture in the preview.
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Jim Dodd » Thu Jun 13, 2019 4:55 pm

WMegl wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 3:38 pm
Jim: I don't know what S-glass is. I made my hull with western red cedar, 6 lb. fiberglass cloth, and West System epoxy- 105 resin and 207 hardener.
Then you are most likely using 6 oz. E-glass. The grain in your cloth is quite visible. More than I'm accustomed to seeing !

S-glass is slightly more visible, but about 20 - 25% stiffer and more abrasion resistant. And yes slightly more visible.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Patricks Dad » Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:26 am

If you click on the links you have included an image will come up but it is part of a larger web page.... click on the image and then right click on that picture to capture a link to just the picture itself. Insert that link into the [gmi]xxx[/gmi] construct (but reverse the letters - 'img' instead of 'gmi' and the picture will be included in your post....

Here's the first picture....

Image
Randy Pfeifer
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Jim Dodd » Fri Jun 14, 2019 9:07 am

Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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WMegl
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by WMegl » Tue Jun 18, 2019 11:36 am

I have sanded my damaged area down to the fiberglass cloth. The damage doesn't look as bad as I thought. It is not through the hull, although I believe the fiberglas either stretched of became separated from the cedar on the inside. Alsok, there is a slight soft spot on the inside that requres a hard push to notice.

So, I am thinking I could repair this damage by simply injecting warm epoxy on the outside under the existing fiberglass which is torn as the 2,3, & 4 pictures show. I am assuming the epoxy would fill the small void created by the squashed wood and form a solid hull.

I don't know if I then need to add a patch of fiberglass cloth and resin on the outside over the torn fiberglass cloth or simply add a few layer of epoxy. I would ask for suggestions.

Also, as shown in the first pictcure on the inside of the stretched/separated fiberglass cloth, can I simply drill a small hole inject warm epoxy into this area to get the fiberglass cloth to disappear, or do I need to sand this away and add a fiberglass cloth patch and epoxy?

I am thinking because these areas are so small, epoxy alone may do the trick.

Thank.

[ img]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V-btRd ... sp=sharing[ /img]
[ img]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-AbSkl ... sp=sharing[ /img]
[ img]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-AQzN6 ... sp=sharing[ /img]
[ img]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-6AlfG ... sp=sharing[ /img]
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Jim Dodd » Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:52 pm

I'd sand a little more and add the patch, probably two !

A Tip ! Cut the patches, and lay them on some plastic, saturate, with mixed epoxy. Then pick them up and lay on the scared area. Stretch some plastic wrap over it.

A little hand sand, and varnish.

I just did this on a friends hull. You can't tell where it is !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

Stephen
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Location: Eastern Ontario

Re: Hull Repair

Post by Stephen » Tue Jun 18, 2019 10:51 pm

can I simply drill a small hole inject warm epoxy into this area to get the fiberglass cloth to disappear
This method is described in Canoecraft to repair damage from a violent blow to the hull which does not break the sheath, which I gather is true for the inside of your canoe only. Drill into the high side and mask the area. Ted says to warm the hull with a hot-air gun and inject heated resin. He doesn't say how to heat the resin. Then sand and varnish after the epoxy cures.

I can't offer any opinions on repairing the outside.

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Cruiser
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Cruiser » Wed Jun 19, 2019 7:27 am

Drilling holes on the inside looks like it may be able to saturate those ares you photographed, the method is using 2 holes, smallest you can make .. drill one at one side of the area you want to inject, and another on the very far side ... force the epoxy from one to the other, wipe and put a piece of tape on till it sets.

That underside damage is another problem all together, IMO you need to get the FG sheath around the damage removed ... the choice is to remove enough to replace the wood (that mostly negates the worry for the inside) or once the area is cleaned up, saturate with unthickened epoxy, then add thickened epoxy to repair/fill the area. Once it sets up, shape it and add FG patches to complete the repair. The first patch is slightly smaller and goes in the "hole" created by cutting away the original FG, the second laps the first by an inch or so all around and goes over that and gets feathered to match the hull contour.

Scissors work well on FG cloth, but for smaller cuts like this you may find a rotary cutter (sewing) is going to make the job easier and the edge will be a lot cleaner.

I like Jim's idea of saturating the cloth first, just be VERY careful when you try and move it, move slowly and don't stretch or pull it when you transfer ... it may be easier to wet the are first, then add the dry cloth, then saturate in place.

Just a few ideas for you to think about.

Brian

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WMegl
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by WMegl » Sun Jun 23, 2019 5:00 pm

I decided to try and replace the damaged wood from the outside without disturbing the inside. I figured if I failed, then I would simply continue preping for the repair on the inside as I did on the outside.

I continued to sand down to the wood and removed the damaged wood.

[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... fzJZgT3-e4[ /img]
[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM ... kHHF_vzXuy[ /img]
[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... Re0gFNEKxo[ /img]
[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... zDTbHNDyXD[ /img]

This picture shows from the inside shows how thin the remaining wood and inside fiberglass cloth and epoxy layer was.

[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... NFOXGcg3do[ /img]

Then I made the wood repair piece and fit it to be proud of the surface for sanding to the level of the hull.

[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... FkmEyjgzAb[ /img]
[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... Vjpz8EM-KD[ /img]

Then, I heated up the hull and a batch of epoxy with my heat gun and gently pried open the wood from the interior epoxy/cloth layer and pushed the epoxy into the patch and cracks with a small artists brush. It worked- the fiberglass cloth that was visible on the inside of the damaged area shown in the picture below disappeared.

[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... NRLBPFmxp7[ /img]

Then I added some microfibers to the epoxy and brushed it on the damaged area and the cedar repair piece and glued it in.

[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... kQjdiX9l0B[ /img]

I've sanded the patch and cut a piece of fiberglass cloth to cover the area only where there is bare wood. It does not overlap onto existing fiberglass cloth.

[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... -9lsOMd4IB[ /img]
[ img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... qiIIbhMPxF[ /img]

My question is should the fiberglass cloth overlap onto existing cloth or not?

I think I have 3 options:

1. Use the cloth patch I have with an application of resin, let it dry, and add 2 more applications of resin as I did when fiberglassing the hull.
2. After this patch dries, add another fiberglass cloth patch which overlaps the first and existing fiberglass cloth and then apply one or 2 additional layers of resin.
3. Cut a fiberglass cloth patch now that overlaps onto the existing cloth and then add 2 layers of resin.

Thanks for your suggestioins.
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Patricks Dad
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Patricks Dad » Sun Jun 23, 2019 7:04 pm

none of your pictures show up (and the links don't take you to pictures)

It really isn't hard. Just click the [ img][ /img] button (9th button from the left) at the top of your window and the insert your link to the picture there between the img and /img (add no spaces) to any of the html code.

The link must point to just a picture (not a page with several pictures or a page with a picture and an ad).
Randy Pfeifer
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Cruiser
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Cruiser » Sun Jun 23, 2019 7:22 pm

I can't see the pictures either, but your explanation is pretty good.

You want to fill the gap above the wood repair with a piece of cloth, then when that gets just tacky add a larger patch a that overlaps the area by ~1.5 "- 2", in your case I would just do an oval ... wet that, do 1 fill coat, then feather the edges and sand a bit, then put a final coat to level it all out.

Once that has fully cured (7-10 days) you can sand with 220 and add the varnish back.

Brian

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Jim Dodd
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Re: Hull Repair

Post by Jim Dodd » Sun Jun 23, 2019 10:31 pm

I just finished replacing the outside cloth on an old stripper.

I had several places where the old cloth pulled off some wood. I filled these shallow areas with, in places 6 layers of cloth.
I wet out several patches as they laid on some plastic.

I pulled them off one right after the other, and layered them on the shallow spots, building them up. Stretch plastic over them, and taped the plastic tight to the hull.

Took maybe 10 minutes.


All I had to do was lightly sand ! Then varnish.

Yes, the spots that required 4 or more patches were visible, but not any worse than trying to fill with something else.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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