Fiberglass Outer Hull

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mikestenger
Posts: 45
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:38 am

Fiberglass Outer Hull

Post by mikestenger »

I am about to fiberglass the outer hull. I am apprehensive! Read everything I could get my hands on and have the Newfound training video. Boat is a 15' Bob's Special...red cedar with Alaska Yellow Cedar accents. I am blessed with a friend with a temp controlled finishing room on his workshop so that is a great benefit. I am using 6 oz glass and MAS Epoxy. Three friends have volunteered to help.

What things did any of you learn in the same process that might be helpful? I know I can do this but want to know all I can before I start.

Thanks for your help.
15' Bob's Special...Boat completed in late October 2007.
Fred G
Posts: 51
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2005 3:27 pm
Location: Haslett, MI

Post by Fred G »

There are lots of right ways. Experienced peoples methods work for them. They are different.

I like to precoat before filling. Gives me a great idea of patch color needed.

Use a scraper as soon as the epoxy is not sticky on any runs.

I like to work from the middle out to the ends alternating ends. I epoxy the whole width as I go.

Designate one person as a mixer and mix small batches.

I like to spread and have the 3d person be just quality control. Generally finger pointing only. (Politicians are best at this job)

It may take 2 - 4 hours to do the whole hull. Eat something before you start.

The outside is easier than the inside.

Nothing you do can not be fixed. If you can build a boat, you can fix it.

There is a point of no return where screwing with it more only makes things worse.

When you are done, take the 3 foot test. If it looks good at 3 feet it is prtobably just fine.

Warm the epoxy before you mix it. Makes it less viscous and is faster at wetting out the fiberglass.

You can do it!
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KARKAUAI
Posts: 362
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 3:06 pm
Location: Hickory, NC / Princeville, Kauai, HI
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Post by KARKAUAI »

Fred's reply is right on. I'd only add that if you mix batches of epoxy (even the slow stuff) that are too big, it may start to kick before you've finished spreading it around. If that happens, it may not wet out the glass completely and leave some white weave showing when you get the light at just the right angle. It's not a total disaster, but you won't like it, either. I found working alone that I could safely mix about 4 oz at a time. I started in the middle, poured it on a 15" section of one side of the hull, spread it around with a squeegee, then went to the other side to repeat, then went toward the other stem and repeated...going from middle to each stem alternating side to side and stem to stem. I guess I got impatient and started mixing 6-8 oz batches and by the end of each batch noticed that it wasn't wetting out completely. Had to sand some out and patch before the fill coats. No one but me could tell where the patches are. Warming the epoxy in a water bath will make it a little runnier and help the wetout, but I don't think it's necessary in a climate controlled shop. I did the fill coats with a roller and tipped with a brush. Even if you heat the shop before you start, and cool it as you go, you'll have to stay vigilant for bubbles for 2-3 hours, especially on the inside. Make sure you have good light that you can put at different angles to the hull when looking for bubbles. Check every 30 minutes for an hour or so, then every 15 min until no more bubbles are showing up. I know it sounds daunting, but if you follow the advice you read here and see on the Newfound video, you'll do fine...hell, if I can do a decent job the first try, it can't be all that hard.
A hui ho,
Kent
mikestenger
Posts: 45
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:38 am

Fiberglass Outer Hull

Post by mikestenger »

Thank you both for your great suggestions!

Mike
15' Bob's Special...Boat completed in late October 2007.
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Ed Houston
Posts: 56
Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2004 7:13 am
Location: Seabrook TX just south of Houston

Post by Ed Houston »

Use a bubble roller, it works great!

See link

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ctId=72269

My wife and I did our Prospector Ranger she mixed and stuck on the time tape and I applied and rolled and sqeegied. We did have a couple of small runs but were able to scrape them out afterwards.

For my next boat I will streatch the cloth out a little better I was browsing through a canoe building book at the book store after doing our hull, the book was showing a canvas covered hull and the guy had a clamping jig that held the canvas bow and stern he used a come along to tension the canvas. It would seem that this technique could be modified a little to use with glass cloth.
My thought here is that I had a couple of spots at the midships where the cloth puckered up and would not lay flat, I fixed the problem by cutting the cloth with sharp scissors at the puckers.

It is a mile stone in the project but with good preperation is not as bad as you would first think. Be sure to have all supplies layed out and ready before you start. Jacqui my wife & I mixed 8oz of resin at a time.

Good luck.

Ed[/quote]
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