Ever tried the Glubot?

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shontsea
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Ever tried the Glubot?

Post by shontsea »

Have any of you ever tried the GluBot for laying down a bead for stripping?
Comments on the tool?

Yeah, I know about syringes and all that, but is seems the GluBot would be easier to keep filled, and the tip could be shaped to lay a perfect bead.

Thanks.
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Doug
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Post by Doug »

"Some people hear the song in the quiet mist of a cold morning..... But for other people the song is loudest in the evening when they are sitting in front of a tent, basking in the camp fire's warmth. This is when I hear it loudest ...." BM
fisherguytoo
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Location: Central Calif. foothills

glue injector

Post by fisherguytoo »

:wink
Hey Doug,

I built my first cedar strip canoe (15' prospector-Bear Mtn design) over last winter
and used a "Workshop Glue Injector" that I purchased from Woodcraft and it made
the job of laying the glue into the cove of the strip SO EASY.

This injector allowed me to control the amount of glue being applied and where I wanted it.

If you are interested, go to www.woodcraft.com, then item number 02130 or 02140
and you will find the info you will need to order them.

ENJOY BUILDING YOUR CANOE

fisherguytoo@volcano.net
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davidb54321
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Post by davidb54321 »

Shontsea,

I used the syringe for about 2 strips, then used only the Elmer's glue bottle after that for the entire process. Much easier and faster, and after a strip or two it is easy to get that "perfect bead".
David Bartlett

"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

I tried syringes but I got fed up with filling it for each strip. Now I use the glue bottle except that I found a screw-on cap to replace the original one. It is from a hair color applicator bottle and it has a very small hole so I never dispense too much glue.
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Juneaudave
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Post by Juneaudave »

I'm still stuck with syringes, yellow carpenter's glue and wiping off with a damp rag before it dries....Please let me know if anyone "perfects" the system!!! :frightened
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KARKAUAI
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Post by KARKAUAI »

I took Glen's advice and went to the beauty supply store. I got a dye applicator squeeze bottle and it was WAAAAY better than using the syringe on the first canoe.
A hui ho,
Kent
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

And only your hairdresser knows for sure. :laughing
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pawistik
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Post by pawistik »

I am using a glue bottle that I bought with several interchangeable tips. I enlarged the fine tip somewhat to make the right size of glue bead and that is working well. There is a separate cap that fits over the whole tip and the bottle stores upside down in the stand. This way the tips don't have to be cleaned between uses.
Image

This subject raises another question for me. I am using the Lee Valley 2002 GF glue and am using a dry rag to wipe off the excess glue squeezed out from between the strips but a smear of residue is left behind that dries white on the strips. Should I be making a greater effort to clean up this residue, perhaps using a damp rag instead of dry? I have been working under the assumption that this residue will easily sand/scrape/plane off when I get to that stage; now I'm not too sure. Photos to show the smeared glue & whitish residue can be seen here.

Cheers,
Bryan
Last edited by pawistik on Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Rick
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Post by Rick »

Bryan, I've always used a damp rag to wipe off carpenter's glue, just to keep things neat, and maybe make sanding easier (glue might be harder than wood and therefore harder to sand off). There haven't been any bonding problems, the rag is just damp enough to pick up surface glue and not dilute the glue in the joint.

Some great photos there, especially on the use of cheater strips!
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ealger
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GluBot

Post by ealger »

Norm Abram has been using a damp cloth for years to wipe up excess glue. Just don't get the surface so wet that the joint glue gets diluted. The alternative is to let the excess glue set for about 10 minutes and use a glue scraper to clean off the excess glue while its soft. On some woods this is preferable to getting the surface wet.
Ed...
Ed Alger
Scottcam
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Post by Scottcam »

I still use a syringe .Instead of wiping out with a damp rag, I follow this procedure
squeeze the leftover glue back into the glue bottle.
keep a small bucket of water handy and pull the syringe full of water and drop it in the bucket.
when you are ready for the next strip; purge the water out of the syringe a couple times and it is ready to use.
I have left the syringe in the bucket for several days before and never had a clogged tip.

I like the control of the syringe and rarely have much glue to clean up. But I am a control freak.

best luck bulding to all
Scott
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pawistik
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Post by pawistik »

Thanks Scott but I was referring to cleaning up the glue squeezed out from between the strips - I realise now I was not clear and have edited my earlier post accordingly.
Cheers, Bryan
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KARKAUAI
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Post by KARKAUAI »

On my first canoe I had a good bit of squeeze-out due to using the syringe technique and not knowing exactly what I was doing. I wiped the glue off with a damp rag and found there were lots of places where the glue penetrated the cedar to the point that it looked different after epoxy. Using Glen's salon bottle I was able to lay in a perfect bead with only tiny bits of squeeze out that I left to dry partially and scraped off. NO places where wood was discolored due to squeeze out.
A hui ho,
Kent
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

I don't get very much squeeze-out either and when I do, I clean it off with paper towels. For my first few boats I used a wet rag but I have a blood circulation problem in my hands and it gets worse when they are wet. That is why I switched to the paper towels.

If you are getting a large amount of squeeze-out, don't go looking for the best way to clean it up, look for the best way to eliminate it! Apply less glue. :wink

As for the darker glue from Lee Valley, I haven't tried it yet so I can't comment on it.
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