On cutting strips...

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Jim Dodd
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Jim Dodd » Sun Jul 26, 2015 8:38 am

I know this is an old thread, but thought it to be relevant, since advances in technology exist now.

Here is a video of how I cut my strips. I've done it this way from day one, and have cut strips for at least 40 canoes and kayaks this way.
Sorry for the quality, but this was my first video. http://vid1272.photobucket.com/albums/y ... izdf9v.mp4
There is no need to plane strips, or your planks for that matter, as this system is accurate enough. other expensive tools aren't needed, except a router to bead and cove strips.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

RBAIRD
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Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:00 am

Re: On cutting strips...

Post by RBAIRD » Mon Feb 08, 2016 7:59 pm

I got my cedar from home depot and wish I would have gone a little thicker on my planks ax I wax only able to plane 1 side

RBAIRD
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by RBAIRD » Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:00 pm

Sorry I forgot to preview my post
Should be as not axe and was not wax

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Cruiser
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Cruiser » Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:52 pm

The 3/4" is a guideline for thickness, if you do thinner boards, say 5/8", it just means you have to use more strips. The advantage to that is that they are more flexible and easier to make turns with, drawback is more strips to plank.

Brian

IanC
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by IanC » Sat Feb 13, 2016 2:07 pm

Jim Dodd wrote:I know this is an old thread, but thought it to be relevant, since advances in technology exist now.

Here is a video of how I cut my strips. I've done it this way from day one, and have cut strips for at least 40 canoes and kayaks this way.
Sorry for the quality, but this was my first video. http://vid1272.photobucket.com/albums/y ... izdf9v.mp4
There is no need to plane strips, or your planks for that matter, as this system is accurate enough. other expensive tools aren't needed, except a router to bead and cove strips.

Jim
I am curious about the platform you are cutting on there - I assume that is just your strong back, but could not make out how the sacrificial supports were secured. That looks like a much more practical system for me, as I have a single garage and a short sloped driveway, cutting 17 foot strips with a table saw and infeed/outfeed will be awkward. I'd be grateful for some more details, or a pointer to other posts with them.

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Cruiser
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Cruiser » Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:09 pm

Hi Ian,

The supports are just screwed onto the strongback, Jim will likely post a video and chime in here.

Another issue you can run into if you use long boards and saw with a rip fence (table or radial) is that unless the board is perfectly straight, the strips will be uneven as the rip fence will not allow the blade to follow the board curve. Using the skillsaw, it will just follow any curves and you get fairly even strips.

I had an 19' 2x6 that had a about a 4" bow ... I wouldn't try to make strips from that on my radial arm saw, but the skillsaw just went to town, all perfect strips.



Brian

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Jim Dodd
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Jim Dodd » Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:26 pm

Brian Nailed it !
I counter sunk sheetrock screws deep enough, so that my saw blade would clear them.
The strong back is soo handy for many things !
I also cut my gunnels the same way I cut my strips. It works so well !
Image
Image
This last pic is where I set my saw down. The 5 gal pail works great, and keeps the blade safe and clean.

Glad you found lumber ! If you bead and cove your strips, by running them BETWEEN the fence and your router bit, there is no need to plane your planks ! The router bits will accomplish that for you, and give you the most uniform strips !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Jim Dodd
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Jim Dodd » Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:51 pm

I may be ahead of the game here, but this is how I SAFELY set up my router for bead and coving strips. I use three feather boards. One to hold the strip down, against the table.
Two to hold the strip against the fence. One is before the bit, and the other, after the bit.
Image
Image
Image

I hope this helps !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Cruiser
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Cruiser » Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:02 pm

Jim, if you have more pics of the router setup, i would appreciate you posting, I can't undertsand the setup from those pics, just interested in learning something.


Brian

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Jim Dodd
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Jim Dodd » Sun Feb 14, 2016 9:53 am

I'll see what I can round up.
Image

Here is my original set up. Crude, but I ran strips for nearly 25 canoes, through this set up.
One router was the bead, and the other did the cove. Originally I was going to do both at the same time. This proved to be too problematic, and I went back to doing one operation at a time.
Image

Those were clearance Sears routers. $20 a piece, and they will still produce great strips ! Oh and with the original Cheap carbide bits.
Hope that helps !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Jim Dodd
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Jim Dodd » Sun Feb 14, 2016 10:16 am

I did a video , but the wind ran interference.Image

Sorry for the quality of the video. Hope you can get something from it !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Jim Dodd
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Re: On cutting strips...

Post by Jim Dodd » Sun Feb 14, 2016 10:25 am

Sorry again ! I found another video on cutting strips. This is more on topic for the original thread.Image
Amateur video again !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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