First Canoe build: 15 Prospector...

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Farmpunk
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 12:45 pm

First Canoe build: 15 Prospector...

Post by Farmpunk »

Howdy y'all. This is the first post in my build thread. I built a stripper kayak last winter and have decided to try a canoe this time around. After much research and thinking, and going on the advice of the forum gurus, I chose the 15 Prospector Ranger.

I built the table\bench on the weekend. I still have to put some legs on it, which means deciding what height I want the forms. Today I'm going to transfer the forms to half inch particle board and cut them out with a bandsaw. I'm going to add an inch or two to the forms to keep them up off the bench, because I read posts where people ended up having to cut into the table when doing the ends because the forms weren't tall enough.
By tomorrow I hope to have the forms in place.
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ealger
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Prospector Ranger

Post by ealger »

I have just finished stripping my Ranger and am ready to install the outer stems. My strongback is 14' long and the stem forms meet exactly at the ends of the strongback (at the cutout at the end of the stem mold, below the shear line). I cut the molds exactly as the Bear Mountain plans indicated. The shear line is a little over 2" at the end of the strongback which is enough to work there.

My strongback is 28" from the floor at the east end and higher at the west end. I'm 6'5" tall and I can just bearly work on the football center. I wouldn't want the setup any higher. If I build another Ranger I'd lower the strongback an 1.5" or so.

I'd take into account your physical height and how how high your strongback is before you cut your molds higher than the mold plans. You didn't indicate whether you are working from the Bear Mountain plans or from layouts from the Canoe Craft book.

Ed...
Ed Alger
Farmpunk
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Post by Farmpunk »

Thanks, Ealger, good to know that someone has built this boat recently and can give me advice and feedback.
I'll leave the plans as drawn, and not add in any extra material. The plans were ordered from Bear Mountain. I think I'll leave the working height alone for a while. I can always modify it once the forms are fixed to the strongback.
Run into any issues in set-up or stripping?
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Bassbug
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Post by Bassbug »

I finished a Redbird last year and am starting the Ranger. I lofted the forms from Canoecraft today and will cut them out soon. I didn't see the measurements of seat locations in the book. Would you be willing to look at your plans and give me the locations?

Good info on the increase in mold height. My strongback is 16' long so I may need to increase the height by a couple of inches.

Thanks,
Dale
Dan.
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Post by Dan. »

I am also working on the Ranger. I am sanding and fairing the outside and preparing to galss soon. One issue I ran into is to make sure you measure 12" from the center line towards each end, not 12" from one end tothe other, My ranger is now actually 14' 8" . If that is my biggest error I will be happy, :eyebrows
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

I'm going to add an inch or two to the forms to keep them up off the bench, because I read posts where people ended up having to cut into the table when doing the ends because the forms weren't tall enough.
This situation occured because those people cut their mold sheet material in half (24") which limited the height of their molds. To compensate, they had to cut into the strongback so the stems would have clearance. If you cut your molds according to the plans everything will be fine.
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ealger
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Post by ealger »

Farmpunk wrote:Run into any issues in set-up or stripping?
Stripping the Ranger is pretty straight forward. Turning the bilge gets a little tight. If you're able to use a couple of 1/2" strips in the turn it will help make the strip joints close better. I prefer to close the bottom with a pre-built football of 10 strips, cutting the football to drop into the opening and set with epoxy. There's various opinions on this but I think it's easier.
I chose to start the first strip cove side DOWN. Seems like Glen prefers this as well. I stripped stapleless using only blue masking tape to hold the strips during glue up, and spring clamps gripping clamping grooves cut into the mold side near the edge. (Takes a lot of tape!)

Don't forget to give some thought to the mold reference edge. One school puts the reference edge toward the ends of the canoe. The other school puts the reference edge toward the middle of the canoe. Using the latter requires that the mold edge be sanded to allow the strip to contact the reference edge. This is my preference. Which method you use determines where you must set the mold on the strongback.
Ed...
Ed Alger
Farmpunk
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Post by Farmpunk »

Bassbug,
The seat placement according to my plans are: stern seat is 34.5 inches from zero station to the rear of the stern seat. The bow seat is 43.5 from zero station, measured to it's rear. Is that what you need?

The forms should be cut out today and I'll begin the set-up process. I was lucky enough to have a bunch of left over particle board from a construction project. I'd forgotten all about it until the other day.
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Bassbug
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Post by Bassbug »

Farmpunk,

Thanks for the mearsurements. Thats what I needed.
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Tim ODonnell
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Post by Tim ODonnell »

Farmpunk,

I finished my ranger September 05. I Worked from Bear Mountain plans and got the wood from Great Northern Craft. This was my first build. Everything seemed to go together very well. The most challenging part was after I came around the bilge. My clamps and scrap wood couldn't hold the ends in anymore. I had glue everyhwere. It was a good time to get an extra pair of hands on the job.

Can't wait till spring.

Tim
Farmpunk
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Post by Farmpunk »

Okay, had a slow week of canoe work last week. Weather was too nice to work inside. I did manage to get all the forms cut out, and get the strongback ready for the forms. Yesterday I cut, steamed, and bent my stem laminates. White pine for the inside, cherry for the out. I almost cut them too short, gah. This afternoon I'm going to start setting up the forms. Or I'm going to glue the stems...
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