mounting stations to strongback - to bolt or to screw?
- Michel vd Hoven
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 5:15 am
- Location: The Netherlands
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mounting stations to strongback - to bolt or to screw?
Hi all,
Next weekend I plan to mount the stations of my Osprey solocanoe to the strongback. Drawings indicate that stations are to be bolted to the wooden support blocks.
Canoe craft uses screws in stead to fix stations to the wooden support blocks.
What are the pros and cons of both methods, and which would you prefer (why).
Thanks for any input.
Michel, The Netherlands
Next weekend I plan to mount the stations of my Osprey solocanoe to the strongback. Drawings indicate that stations are to be bolted to the wooden support blocks.
Canoe craft uses screws in stead to fix stations to the wooden support blocks.
What are the pros and cons of both methods, and which would you prefer (why).
Thanks for any input.
Michel, The Netherlands
Mounting stations
Michel, I use #12 wood screws to mount the station 1- 1/2" square blocks to the 3/4" strong back top and 1- 1/2 #8 round head screws to mount the 1/2" station molds to the blocks. I usually use 2 screws on the molds but you could go with 3. I've never had a mold or block come loose.
Ed...
Ed...
Ed Alger
Hello Michel, I used basically the same setup as Ed except that I made L shaped support blocks out of waste pieces (left over from the making the stations) and screwed them to the strongback and then the stations to them. I just used #12 wood screws for both connections and didn't have any problem. There really isn't that much stress put on the individual station molds so, in my opinion, bolting them on might be "over kill" and unnecessary work. I'd spend the time making sure that everything is level, square and fair rather than drilling holes for bolts.
Just my two cents worth not an expert opinion.
Just my two cents worth not an expert opinion.
screws and bolts
I sctew 1 1/2 square block to station. Block has two 3/8 holes to match same on strongback. Staion then bolted to strongback with two 1/4 bolts. Allows adjustment with shims and its easy teo get stations out from canoe(except in the ends) when taking it off the strongback.
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
We used screws (we had a big tub of drywall screws left over from a basement finishing project...) I would think that using bolts would introduce registration problems and difficulty to fine tune. With screws, you can easily adjust and rescrew should you need to chanage anything when you are setting up the stations. I can't imagine there would be any structural issues with screws.
BOLTS AND NUTS would definitely be necessary if the materials you're using could'nt hold SCREWS very well or maybe if you're using metal (angle) for your station blocks (you never know what people will come up with, as a matter of fact, a strongback built of nice rigid angle iron is not outrageous if you have the stuff laying around) I believe an aluminium ladder would probably make a good easy to handle strongback.
** IF AT FIRST YOU DON'T SUCCEED -- TRY DOING IT YOUR WAY **
GEORGE.
GEORGE.
- John Caldeira
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Dallas, Texas
- Contact:
Drywall Screws
I use drywall screws to attach forms on an external strongback. Clamps temporarily hold the form in exact position, then the scew holes are pre-drilled. Two or three screws are driven into the bottom of each form. Very solid. I can't think of any significant disadvantage to this method.
John
John
I used lag bolts with (large) washers. I drilled over sized holes in the molds, this allowed me to adjust / aline the mold stations.
Doug
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Doug
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"Some people hear the song in the quiet mist of a cold morning..... But for other people the song is loudest in the evening when they are sitting in front of a tent, basking in the camp fire's warmth. This is when I hear it loudest ...." BM
- Bryan Hansel
- Posts: 678
- Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 6:36 pm
- Location: Grand Marais, MN
- Contact:
I screw my mounting blocks(2x2x12) with deck screws to the stongback, and either bolt, or clamp my forms to these.
This allows me to adjust the forms to the centerlines. Many times I have to go back and adjust, How would I easily do this if I screwed my forms to the mounting blocks?
Jim
This allows me to adjust the forms to the centerlines. Many times I have to go back and adjust, How would I easily do this if I screwed my forms to the mounting blocks?
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
- KARKAUAI
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 3:06 pm
- Location: Hickory, NC / Princeville, Kauai, HI
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I screwed 2"x2" blocks to the strongback and screwed the forms to the blocks...everything worked OK, but instead of cedar for the blocks, next time I'll use something not quite so soft...?pine. I think it would not be as likely to allow for fore/aft tilting of the stations as the soft cedar. Probably not critical, but something to think about anyway.
A hui ho,
Kent
Kent
Fastening Mould Plates to strongback
One more way to do it. :eyebrows I made angle brackets, 3/4"stock, 4.0" high x 6.0" wide with a gussett for strength and accuracy (90 degrees). Then fastened them to the mould plates. Using strips of cardboard (the back of writing tablets) as shims It was easy to level and adjust the mould plates with minimum effort to the wire I strung between the Stem Moulds (see Ted Moores Canoecraft).
Like others I used recycled Drywall screws. IMHO, Lag bolts, carrage bolts and even # 12 Screws are Overkill.
Like others I used recycled Drywall screws. IMHO, Lag bolts, carrage bolts and even # 12 Screws are Overkill.
shim material
playing cards make great shims for this purpose:Using strips of cardboard (the back of writing tablets) as shims It was easy to level and adjust the mould plates with minimum effort to the wire I strung between the Stem Moulds (see Ted Moores Canoecraft).
* thin for fine increments
* uniform thickness
* not very compressible