Sounds good!
There always seems to be a lot of variables that can cause problems.
Good Luck!!!!
Jim
MAS Epoxy recoat time
Recoat Times
John, if you're still listening: In your future use of MAS epoxy, do you intend to sand in between coats? I'd be interested to hear some more about your technique in this regard.
On your website, you explain that you watch "through out" the day to pickup any runs. I tried this approach on my last recoat however the epoxy gelled to the point after only 1 hour that I could no longer pickup the runs but the epoxy continued to sag. This was along the shearline where perhaps I wasn't too careful how thick I rolled it on.
Thanks.
Ed...
On your website, you explain that you watch "through out" the day to pickup any runs. I tried this approach on my last recoat however the epoxy gelled to the point after only 1 hour that I could no longer pickup the runs but the epoxy continued to sag. This was along the shearline where perhaps I wasn't too careful how thick I rolled it on.
Thanks.
Ed...
Ed Alger
Epoxy recoat
Well, thanks one and all for the help. We just finished an epoxy coat and I think we understand the bubble condition a little more. This coat went on very nice.
We used a 3/8" round dowel to stir and gently is the rule! As we started the mix there is kind of a visual feedback during the mixing. That is, stiring gently we could see the currents of the hardner and the resin for about the first 20 seconds or so. By the 1 minute mark, the mix was smooth with very few bubbles. We stirred for about 90 seconds and then went to work!
I had cleaned the hull the night before, wiping with warm water as Glen suggested. I wiped about 4 times until the water was clear. Then today wiped once more and dried off with paper towels.
Next time I'm going to be more careful to vacuum thourghly under the shear-line! Although I had cleaned the hull thourghly, there was some minor dust clinging out of sight which I dragged up with the roller! It's the little things that get you!
And thanks to Rod Tait for the info on the West 800 foam roller covers. The covers work excellent. The thing about these covers is that the foam is thin enough not to hold a lot of epoxy which would otherwise squish out the sides during rolling.
And also, I feel that John Michne's routine of applying a 6 ounce batch, rolling, and then applying the second batch, before tipping off the first batch, make a difference in how the rolling/brushing bubbles are cleared.
I'm going to apply a little extra epoxy over the bias stem tape in a couple of hours.
Thanks all for the help. :smile
Ed..
We used a 3/8" round dowel to stir and gently is the rule! As we started the mix there is kind of a visual feedback during the mixing. That is, stiring gently we could see the currents of the hardner and the resin for about the first 20 seconds or so. By the 1 minute mark, the mix was smooth with very few bubbles. We stirred for about 90 seconds and then went to work!
I had cleaned the hull the night before, wiping with warm water as Glen suggested. I wiped about 4 times until the water was clear. Then today wiped once more and dried off with paper towels.
Next time I'm going to be more careful to vacuum thourghly under the shear-line! Although I had cleaned the hull thourghly, there was some minor dust clinging out of sight which I dragged up with the roller! It's the little things that get you!
And thanks to Rod Tait for the info on the West 800 foam roller covers. The covers work excellent. The thing about these covers is that the foam is thin enough not to hold a lot of epoxy which would otherwise squish out the sides during rolling.
And also, I feel that John Michne's routine of applying a 6 ounce batch, rolling, and then applying the second batch, before tipping off the first batch, make a difference in how the rolling/brushing bubbles are cleared.
I'm going to apply a little extra epoxy over the bias stem tape in a couple of hours.
Thanks all for the help. :smile
Ed..
Ed Alger
-
Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
-
John Michne
- Posts: 116
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 7:36 am
- Location: Clifton Park, NY
- Contact:
For Ed Auga –
I just finished the epoxy work on a canoe, and won’t get to do a wet out on my next boat for quite a while. As for sanding between coats on my next one, it will be a question of timing. Having recently become a widower, I have the time (a trade off I would gladly have given up) to get more coats on without sanding. Sooner or later I will likely have to sand, probably just before the last fill coat.
My web site needs to be revised to reflect the new MAS hardener. I did manage to drag up a few runs a couple of times before the gel was too far set. The tip off timing will depend on the speed of the hardener – the slower the hardener, the more vigilant one must be dragging up runs.
- John
I just finished the epoxy work on a canoe, and won’t get to do a wet out on my next boat for quite a while. As for sanding between coats on my next one, it will be a question of timing. Having recently become a widower, I have the time (a trade off I would gladly have given up) to get more coats on without sanding. Sooner or later I will likely have to sand, probably just before the last fill coat.
My web site needs to be revised to reflect the new MAS hardener. I did manage to drag up a few runs a couple of times before the gel was too far set. The tip off timing will depend on the speed of the hardener – the slower the hardener, the more vigilant one must be dragging up runs.
- John
Thank you to contributors to this thread, and especially Mr. Michne for his helpful website. I extend my sympathies to him for his recent loss.
I am glassing my second boat, a Cottage Cruiser, with MAS. I also used MAS on my first boat, a S&G CLC 16' kayak. That was several years ago, with their old formulation. I think that boat was a lot easier, because it consists mostly of flat planes. This one is going decently, but it won't be destined for a museum.
1) I seal coated the boat, then applied glass the next day. Attending to runs and irregularities after the glassing, during the green stage, there were a few spots where there was either a tiny lump or a blister. I wasn't careful enough with my scraper, and I shaved off a bit of cloth in a few spots of maybe 3/8" diameter. I just did fill coat #1 and I'm concerned that these round spots will be visible as slightly whitened areas forever. Will they go away, or is there a repair I can/should make now?
2) I was planning to make use of MAS' new very quick cure time (even with slow hardener!) and put another fill coat on late this afternoon. However, on this morning's fill coat I added bias cloth at each stem. I'm wondering if therefore I need to let this coat dry, and do a light feather sand to blend in that cloth. Or, should I build another fill coat and THEN feather the cloth?
3) I used Mr. Michne's suggested technique of simply rollering on the epoxy, with a Home Depot "mohair" roller. (Rob Macks advocates West System foam rollers for this - any opinions?) It did produce the usual amount of bubbles, but I tipped them off after about 5 or 10 minutes. I used a disposable chip brush at first, which did an okay job but shed bristles. I then used a foam brush, which I thought did a fine job.
4) Unrelated but somewhat shocking topic: the staple holes are a lot more visible than I had expected, very dark against the surrounding wood. I had already planned to use stapleless technique on at least some parts of the next boat, if only to provide better clamping in difficult areas, but now I'm more motivated! Where I do use staples, I will align them VERY carefully.
Robert Shapiro
Burlington VT
I am glassing my second boat, a Cottage Cruiser, with MAS. I also used MAS on my first boat, a S&G CLC 16' kayak. That was several years ago, with their old formulation. I think that boat was a lot easier, because it consists mostly of flat planes. This one is going decently, but it won't be destined for a museum.
1) I seal coated the boat, then applied glass the next day. Attending to runs and irregularities after the glassing, during the green stage, there were a few spots where there was either a tiny lump or a blister. I wasn't careful enough with my scraper, and I shaved off a bit of cloth in a few spots of maybe 3/8" diameter. I just did fill coat #1 and I'm concerned that these round spots will be visible as slightly whitened areas forever. Will they go away, or is there a repair I can/should make now?
2) I was planning to make use of MAS' new very quick cure time (even with slow hardener!) and put another fill coat on late this afternoon. However, on this morning's fill coat I added bias cloth at each stem. I'm wondering if therefore I need to let this coat dry, and do a light feather sand to blend in that cloth. Or, should I build another fill coat and THEN feather the cloth?
3) I used Mr. Michne's suggested technique of simply rollering on the epoxy, with a Home Depot "mohair" roller. (Rob Macks advocates West System foam rollers for this - any opinions?) It did produce the usual amount of bubbles, but I tipped them off after about 5 or 10 minutes. I used a disposable chip brush at first, which did an okay job but shed bristles. I then used a foam brush, which I thought did a fine job.
4) Unrelated but somewhat shocking topic: the staple holes are a lot more visible than I had expected, very dark against the surrounding wood. I had already planned to use stapleless technique on at least some parts of the next boat, if only to provide better clamping in difficult areas, but now I'm more motivated! Where I do use staples, I will align them VERY carefully.
Robert Shapiro
Burlington VT