Varnish

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wil
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Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 12:49 am
Location: Yosemite, CA

Varnish

Post by wil »

Hi everyone, we've been searching for the right marine varnish to finish up our prospector, and saw that Pettit's EasyPoxy Spar Varnish is what's recommended here on the site, but can't find that anywhere. We've found similar Pettit products, and were wondering if anyone had any suggestions for us.
Thanks!
Kelly, Nick and Wil
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davidb54321
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Post by davidb54321 »

Wil & All!

I used Epiphane's Gloss varnish and am very happy with the results. It is readily available, and has high UV protection.

Remember, whichever varnish you use will be sacrificial and will need replacing periodically. Your canoe will never again look as good as just before you launch for the first time!
David Bartlett

"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

Ditto on the Epifanes.
wil
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Location: Yosemite, CA

Great!

Post by wil »

Thanks guys!
wil
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Location: Yosemite, CA

One more...

Post by wil »

Sorry, one more question: how much should we get?
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

Two quarts will do the job and leave you with a bit to apply to the first scratches. :frightened

Oops! I forgot to say that you should also pick up a small quantity of Epifanes Brushing Thinner.
David James
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Location: Glenview, Illinois

Post by David James »

Do you guys mind if I jump in and ask if McClosky "Man-O-War" marine spar varnish would be acceptable for my F17? I can buy it right here in town at the paint store. I used it on my seat frames and they look good, but what about the hull? Maybe I should just try applying it to small area?

Dave in Glenview, Il
"If given six hours to chop down a tree, spend the first four sharpening your ax." - Abraham Lincoln
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davidb54321
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Post by davidb54321 »

Dave,

Any good quality spar varnish will do fine.
David Bartlett

"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
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Jim Dodd
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Post by Jim Dodd »

Just make sure it dries on your epoxy.
Some take a long time to dry,
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
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ealger
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Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2004 5:14 pm

Varnish

Post by ealger »

Jim has a good point. We know that Epifanes and HMG varnishes, used with the recommended thinners, will dry in short order on properly cured epoxy.
Ed..
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JohnnyMilla_
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Location: Lincoln NE

Post by JohnnyMilla_ »

How long does it take the epoxy to cure before applying varnish?

I made a few mistakes and had to sand off my first coat of varnish.
I went down to the cloth in a few small spots, and patched with more epoxy. I will sand them smoth with the rest of the hull this evening as it has been three days. How long should I wait to try varnish again?

My Issue appeared to be mixing the varnish in a wax coated cup. Most of the finish was fine, until the areas I varnished last. They didn't appear as though they would ever dry, ( I waited 1 week) so I sanded it all off being worried I would cause more issues by trying to salvage the hardened areas.

Does the varnish dry as hard as the epoxy? I ordered seats that were varnished, and the varnish is no where near the hardness as the epoxy, I would go as far to call it more of a rubbery consistency.

Thanks

John
Doug Carey
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Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 2:53 pm
Location: Port Robinson, Ontario, Canada

major problems with runs and sags in my spar varnish coats

Post by Doug Carey »

Well people.........after working on my "Prospector" since December 2005, I am finally at the last stage of applying the 3 coats inside and 3 outside the hull..........I bought what I was told is the ultimate in spar varnish products (at $32.00 per litre!).
I have wet sanded between coats and am getting very frustrated because I keep getting R U N S in the finish!!!!!!!!!!
What am I doing wrong?
I even bought very expensive brushes designed just for varnish/varathane finishes.
I have tried brushing with the grain........I have tried brushing against the grain.......and I still end up with...........R U N S!!!!!!!!
Has anybody tried using the same foam rollers that we used on the epoxy coats?
I don't have access to any spray equipment, and I don't think that I really want that degree of finish anyways...........i just don't want any more R U N S !!!!!!!!!!
I want to launch this canoe so bad so I would appreciate any advise.
thanks,
Doug c.
PADDLES AWAY!
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mtpocket
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Post by mtpocket »

Doug,

I can appreciate your problems because they have been mine also. I have sprayed, brushed and rolled varnish and only two of these provided a no-run solution. Brushing must be for the pros. I'm no dummy but I can't do it worth a darn. Spraying is my favorite but during my canoe project my compressor broke. I used those foam rollers you speak of. Fabulous product. What I did was roll on from sheer line to keel line about two feet wide and tip off with a good brush then go around the boat and do the same thing on the other side. This allows you to keep your wet edges together and you are always working the leading wet edge. Foam rollers will introduce some bubbles. Don't take lots of time or the joint of your new varnish and your last wet edge will show. You can go over it all again with the brush tipping off as you go when you have it covered. Apply thin coats.

Don't worry too much about wet sanding between each coat. Apply two or three and then wet sand. After cleaning the hull surface very well, add one really good coat using what you have learned on the prior coats.

Good luck
Doug Carey
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Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 2:53 pm
Location: Port Robinson, Ontario, Canada

varnish runs

Post by Doug Carey »

Thanks for the suggestions..........what about the idea of thinning the varnish before applying, regardless of whether it is sprayed, rolled or brushed?
I noticed in some of the other builders comments that they had thinned their spar varnish.
Appreciate any comments.
Thanks,
Doug
PADDLES AWAY!
Rick
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Post by Rick »

Doug, the varnish might be too thick when you're brushing it on and the film of varnish on the hull could be running and sagging because of that... the weight of the thick layer of varnish causes it to run down the sides. Thinning has worked for me in preventing this, since the varnish is easier to brush out to a thinner and lighter film and it stays in place without running.

Epifanes recommends thinning their varnish by about ten percent for best results, and some thin their mixes out even more, especially during the first coats. You'll be able to feel the lighter and thinner mix brushing out more easily once you've thinned it. If you're unsure of how much to thin, a test panel might help, brush on the varnish, then prop the panel up in a vertical position and let dry... if it runs, the varnish mix is too thick, more thinner's needed.

Another way is to start out with a mix that's actually thinned too much then the subsequent layers are brushed on with thicker mixes, with the last being a good final layer that flows out nicely with no brush marks. Varnish that's thinned too much will most likely dry with brush marks visible... good luck!
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