I have scarfed my ash gunwales together and am about to machine the scuppers. Plan to use a router to do this.
I am confused (what's new) on tapering the inner and outer gunwales. The Bear Mountain book recommends tapering the last 30" on the side which attaches to the hull. On the cover of the most recent Newfound Boatworks catalog, a beautiful canoe has the inner gunwales tapered on the side away from the hull.
As I look at the pieces, drawing the taper on the gunwale and then cutting it on my bandsaw looks the easiest. Is there a better way?
Tapering Gunwales
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mikestenger
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:38 am
Tapering Gunwales
15' Bob's Special...Boat completed in late October 2007.
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canoeblderinmt
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2004 12:04 pm
- Location: Butte, MT
Mike,
Since when is anybody here interested in the easiest way to do something?
You could do the taper either on the inside or outside surface. Here are my thoughts. The outer taper is probably easier, and can be done after the gunwale is mounted, using a handplane or (please don't do this) a belt sander. It should look just fine, but will expose end grain as you taper. End grain has a nasty habit of being hard to completely seal, can fray, splinter and catch on hands, clothing, etc as it ages. It also soaks up water (if you don't get it and keep it fully sealed) which can speed up the entire "Entropy" thing. And, depending on the wood, you may have color variations along the tapered area.
Tapering on the inner surface eliminates much of this worry, but is a little bigger pain, as you have to do it before you mount the gunwale, and clamping, marking it evenly, and cutting it to match can be a little chore. By burying the exposed end grain into the hull, you maintain even color and grain pattern on the outside. There is little worry about splintering and water soaking into that exposed "straw" that is end grain.
You certainly could use a band saw to remove most of the waste and clean that up with a plane or sand paper. Got pics?
Greg
Since when is anybody here interested in the easiest way to do something?
You could do the taper either on the inside or outside surface. Here are my thoughts. The outer taper is probably easier, and can be done after the gunwale is mounted, using a handplane or (please don't do this) a belt sander. It should look just fine, but will expose end grain as you taper. End grain has a nasty habit of being hard to completely seal, can fray, splinter and catch on hands, clothing, etc as it ages. It also soaks up water (if you don't get it and keep it fully sealed) which can speed up the entire "Entropy" thing. And, depending on the wood, you may have color variations along the tapered area.
Tapering on the inner surface eliminates much of this worry, but is a little bigger pain, as you have to do it before you mount the gunwale, and clamping, marking it evenly, and cutting it to match can be a little chore. By burying the exposed end grain into the hull, you maintain even color and grain pattern on the outside. There is little worry about splintering and water soaking into that exposed "straw" that is end grain.
You certainly could use a band saw to remove most of the waste and clean that up with a plane or sand paper. Got pics?
Greg
" Choose to chance the rapids, Dare to dance the tide..."
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Jeff in Farmington, MI
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2004 3:19 pm
- Location: Farmington, Michigan, USA
Mike,
I was also very apprehensive about tapering the gunwales. However, I found this to be much easier than it would seem. A hand plan is probably the best tool.
Before the gunwale was installed, I clamped the length to be tapered in my "workmate" folding workbench. This straightens the gunwale while you draw the taper with a straight edge of some kind. Next, unclamp the gunwale and reclamp it with the wood to be removed facing up. All plane strokes should go out toward the end of the gunwale.
It really only took about 10 minutes to plane the taper into each end. I strongly recommend that you taper the hull side of the gunwale for the reasons explained by Greg. Good luck.
Jeff
I was also very apprehensive about tapering the gunwales. However, I found this to be much easier than it would seem. A hand plan is probably the best tool.
Before the gunwale was installed, I clamped the length to be tapered in my "workmate" folding workbench. This straightens the gunwale while you draw the taper with a straight edge of some kind. Next, unclamp the gunwale and reclamp it with the wood to be removed facing up. All plane strokes should go out toward the end of the gunwale.
It really only took about 10 minutes to plane the taper into each end. I strongly recommend that you taper the hull side of the gunwale for the reasons explained by Greg. Good luck.
Jeff
Tapered Gunwales
FWIW:
http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... php?t=1422
I've always tapered the outside of my gunwales. Of course I've only used Ash and Mahogany so I can speak for other woods.
Some providers of pre-cut gunwales suggest tapering the hull side to avoid having to re-roundover the outside edge. I never found this to be a big problem. It's easy work to round over with a hand plane or router.
If you use a plane, it must be very sharp to reduce tear-out, as it's been mentioned.
Using my taper fixture, it's possible to taper down to 1/16" or less which I like to do on my inwales.
Ed...
http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... php?t=1422
I've always tapered the outside of my gunwales. Of course I've only used Ash and Mahogany so I can speak for other woods.
Some providers of pre-cut gunwales suggest tapering the hull side to avoid having to re-roundover the outside edge. I never found this to be a big problem. It's easy work to round over with a hand plane or router.
If you use a plane, it must be very sharp to reduce tear-out, as it's been mentioned.
Using my taper fixture, it's possible to taper down to 1/16" or less which I like to do on my inwales.
Ed...
Ed Alger
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davidb54321
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 7:05 pm
- Location: Presque Isle, Maine
- Contact:
Mike,
I cut my gunwales on the sides facing the hull. I drew a line where I wanted my taper, then clamped some scrap to either side(top and bottom) using drywall screws to squeeze it al together with the piece to be cut off sticking out the side. The scrap pieces slide against the fence on the tablesaw and the waste comes right off. If you practice with some scrap it is quite easy and fast. It takes longer to figure out what i'm trying to describe than to actually do it.
I cut my gunwales on the sides facing the hull. I drew a line where I wanted my taper, then clamped some scrap to either side(top and bottom) using drywall screws to squeeze it al together with the piece to be cut off sticking out the side. The scrap pieces slide against the fence on the tablesaw and the waste comes right off. If you practice with some scrap it is quite easy and fast. It takes longer to figure out what i'm trying to describe than to actually do it.
David Bartlett
"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
I believe the reason Ted instructs tapering the inside end of outer gunwales is because he bevels the bottom edge so that the outside gunwales are 5/8" thick and the inside 3/4" (p. 85). This bevel runs the length of the gunwale and is cut before the ends are tapered. If that is done, it is better to taper the inside of the ends.
I use a jig on my table saw to cut the 32" end taper. I think Glen has posted a jig he uses to cut scarfs which is similar. The jig is a 48" wide piece of plywood cut to 24" width and has two hardwood runners on the botton that slides in the miter grooves. The gunwale is clamped on top of the plywood and the entire jig is pushed through the table saw. I don't have any picks, but if you are interested, I'll take some and post them.
Dale
I use a jig on my table saw to cut the 32" end taper. I think Glen has posted a jig he uses to cut scarfs which is similar. The jig is a 48" wide piece of plywood cut to 24" width and has two hardwood runners on the botton that slides in the miter grooves. The gunwale is clamped on top of the plywood and the entire jig is pushed through the table saw. I don't have any picks, but if you are interested, I'll take some and post them.
Dale