glassing hull

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claybrook
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Oct 19, 2006 4:18 pm
Location: new site ,alabama

glassing hull

Post by claybrook »

was wanting to add a strip of tape around stem and keel area for more protection .or should I double the cloth on bottom.(going to use 6oz cloth).this is my first strip built and it will be used alot
Jeremy.
Rick
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 9:23 am
Location: Bancroft, Ontario

Post by Rick »

The lakes and rivers around here have a lot of sharp rocks, so I added an extra layer of 6 oz glass over the entire bottom. This added on about two pounds, maybe a little less. The edges were feathered into the layer underneath and the edge is not visible after varnishing, neither is the color or appearance.

For greater strength, a layer of glass can also be added to the interior's bottom. I didn't do that, since abrasion resistance against the inevitable contact with rocks was the thing that I felt was needed most.

The area under and in front of the stems was built up with several layers of cloth and matting to form 1/4" thick skid plates and a fiberglass leading edge. This might be overkill unless one day, the canoe hits a sharp rock dead-on and that rips out the stem band and a chunk of wood underneath. The thick fiberglass does affect appearance, and has an amber translucent look. Not too bad, but the metal stem band will look better.

Sheathing wood with layers of glass adds a lot to strength and rigidity, so if those qualities are what you want to build in, add the extra layer(s)... the trade-off is in weight, and an excessively reinforced canoe will be heavier to carry on the portage.

Anyway, your call, if the canoe turns out to be overbuilt, or underbuilt, the next one can always be made better...

:wink
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Bassbug
Posts: 136
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 1:09 pm
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
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Post by Bassbug »

Jeremy,

I put a second layer of fiberglass below the waterline on the outside. You can tape the waterline and cover the remainder of the canoe with plastic. The tape and plastic might seem like alot of work, but believe me it saves lots of time scraping drips. You can cut the glass at the tape line when the epoxy gets firm. This photo is from John Caldeira's website.
Image


Below is our Ranger after the waterline glass was added and feathered. I also add one or two strips over the outer stem. Both are bias cut 6oz, the first about 6" wide and the second 4" or so. I also feather the edge of the glass to blend it in with the other glass.
DaleImage
claybrook
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Oct 19, 2006 4:18 pm
Location: new site ,alabama

thanks

Post by claybrook »

thanks for the advice. I'm sure that this want be the last question before I get done.

Thanks again

Jeremy
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