Alternate joint for splicing gunnels?

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Roger C
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Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:28 am

Alternate joint for splicing gunnels?

Post by Roger C »

I'm at the point where I am splicing 8' lengths for the gunnels of my Ranger. I made a few test scarf joints that turned out well. But I'm not a fan of the look. Has anyone tried a differnt joint?

Being an amateur carpenter, I was thinking of using a rail and stile set, normally used in creating raised pannel doors, to join the lengths. The joint would have plenty of surface area.



Does anyone have an opinion? or advice?
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Erik, Belgium
Posts: 344
Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 5:31 am
Location: Gierle, Belgium
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Post by Erik, Belgium »

hi Roger,

I have no experience with other thechniques then butt joints (strips in the hull) or scarf joints (gunwales, keelson ...). If you 're able to position the scarf so that the woodgrains match, I don't think anyone will notice there is a joint. For me, it doesn't matter if one can see the joints, I think it 's art. You 'll know this probably, but to be complete from my side: the scarfs should be between 1/8 (length of the scarf = 8 times wood thickness) and 1/12.

regards,
Erik, belgium.
Charles G. Clark, Jr.
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:06 pm
Location: Huntsville, AL

Post by Charles G. Clark, Jr. »

I would not recommend a rail and stile joint for your gunnels. The gunnels are fairly stressed as you bend the gunnels to conform to the shear line of the canoe. The rail and stile joints won't be able to handle this stress.

I have used 8:1 scarf joints for the gunnels on two canoes so far. These joints are strong and the stress on bending is spread across a larger area, thus reducing the chance of joint failure.

Chuck
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