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parrisw · Post by **parrisw** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:31 pm

Hey, I just joined here, I also just ordered a set of Plans from Bear mountain boats, for the
16' 0" Canadien. Now going to start collecting materials, and hopefully start to build the strongback. I am new to building boats. Although I do have experience in fine woodworking, and should have most of the tools necessary to build this canoe.

Thanks

Will

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:41 pm

Hi Will, welcome aboard. Got any good tools I can borrow????

Please post progress reports and pics if possible once the project gets under way.

parrisw · Post by **parrisw** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:44 pm

Hey, thanks for the welcome. I haven't even got the plans yet, can't wait to get them, so Im not really sure what I need to start getting in materials. However I did just buy the book, "Canoe Craft" been reading that through so far. I have sent a email off to a local small mill, to see if he can supply me with cedar.

One question. I guess finised dimension for the Cedar is 3/4" thick?? Is it ok to use rought cedar or is machined surface much better to use? Since the local mill will supply me with rough cedar.

Thanks

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:59 pm

You can purchase rough lumber if you have access to a planer. Some builders have reported using rough lumber that wasn't "too rough" without having a planer and they did o.k.

If you purchase rough lumber and plane it yourself, you can just take it down to a smooth face on both sides even if it is a bit over 3/4" final thickness. Some strip suppliers make their strips 7/8".

If you route a cove & bead on the strips you will be losing 1/8" on the face width of the strips so strips that are 3/4" wide will actually cover a surface width of 5/8".

parrisw · Post by **parrisw** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:04 pm

Cool thanks for the tips. Also what size of router bits do I need to buy to do the bead and cove?

Thanks again

Will

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:24 pm

You will need bits like these ones:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 46184&ap=1

Another possibility, if you are using 1/4" thick strips, is to get the new slightly larger radius bits ( 5/16" ) from MLCS. Being a bit oversize means the cove shoulders are less fragile and the strips may conform to tight bilge curves better. I haven't yet tried these new bits though.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... flute.html

I got my bits from here: http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=16505

parrisw · Post by **parrisw** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:31 pm

Another possibility, if you are using 1/4" thick strips, is to get the new slightly larger radius bits ( 5/16" ) from MLCS. Being a bit oversize means the cove shoulders are less fragile and the strips may conform to tight bilge curves better. I haven't yet tried these new bits though.

ok I m a little confused now, if the final thickness of the strips is .75. is the .75 the width, and the thickness is .25, whats the final machined size of the strips.

Thanks

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:40 pm

You determine the final dimensions of the strips but the industry standard is 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide. However, some suppliers make their strips 1/4" thick and 7/8" wide. When I build a boat for my own use, I make my strips 3/16" thick but I still use the 1/8" radius router bits for the bead & cove. The width of my strips depends on the thickness of the lumber I purchase and plane. The strips are ripped off the edge of the boards so the strip width is equal to the lumber thickness.

I hope this is clearer now.

Edited: BTW, while waiting for your plans, you might want to have a look at John Michne's website: http://www.michneboat.com/ Click on "My web site" then on "Builder's Corner" and read it all. It is very informative.

ealger · Post by **ealger** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 11:15 pm

Will, good to see you starting a new adventure!
Glen mentioned the 5/16" radius cutters available from MLCS. These cutters produce a shallow-er cove and produce a less fragile edge as Glen mentioned.
If the strips are milled to .275" rather thatn .250", the cove depth can be adjusted to leave about a .010" edge. This is where the 5/16" cutter gains its advantage. Then when the hull is faired, the joint disappears (almost!) and if care is taken in laying up the strips, little or no filling is needed.
Ed...

parrisw · Post by **parrisw** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 11:24 pm

Ok, so lets say I buy some full dimension lumber being 1x6, I can slice that in half giving a .5x6 board, I can then rip that into say 5 strips 7/8 wide, I then further machine that down with a planer to 1/4 thick x 7/8 wide, then bead and cove it, further reducing the width down to 3/4. Does that make sense.

Thanks guys for the great help thus far.

Will

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:57 am

If you purchase 1" X 6" lumber you just rip the 1/4" X 1" (nominal) strips off the edge of the boards. Then you flip the strips over 90 degrees so they are laying flat and route the 1/4" thick edges. This is explained in CanoeCraft and also on John Michne's website.

parrisw · Post by **parrisw** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:04 am

Ok, thanks for clearing that up. Dumb question, I kinda got ahead of myself. :confused :embarassed

Do I want to rip 1/4 strips, or should I go larger leaving enough to machine down with a planer?

parrisw · Post by **parrisw** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:46 am

Can I safely build the strongback that is in the book Canoe Craft, to use to build my 16' Canadien from Bearmountain boat??

mbmike · Post by **mbmike** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:04 pm

Hi Will and welcome,
The strongback from Canoecraft is excellent. It is very sturdy and should work well for you.
Mike

Post by **Patricks Dad** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 1:17 pm

As you rip your strips, keep in mind the grain of the boards you are ripping. You can either end up with Edge Grain or Flat Grain stips. General opinion is that Edge Grain stips are the best to work with.

The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

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