will my canoe fold like a tin can?

camper1 · Post by **camper1** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:12 pm

so i only have to install seats to complete my 18.5' White, and never planned to use it beyond a simple pond paddle (it will end up in my parents cabin, as they wanted one for the ceiling). but this all changed when i got a call from a college buddy who wants to do a canoe trip this summer on lake Champlain (very big lake), island hopping for a few days.

the problem may come with my hull, and the flaw within it. because it sat for so long without forms during college months i implimented support under the center of the hull (was very flimsy). when i glassed the inside, i forgot this support was there, which was pushing slightly upward into the hull. so now my hull humps up slightly in the center. because it's lost its 'outward roundness', which is important for strength, could it buckle up and fold on me while under load?

any opinions?

thanks.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:15 pm

Perhaps doubling the glass below the waterline both inside and outside would alleviate the problem but I can't vouch for that being totally effective on such a large boat.

canoeblderinmt · Post by **canoeblderinmt** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:09 pm

Is there any give in the hull? I bet there is and if so, why not turn the hull over (upside down), build a jig that will return your natural arch (maybe plus a little) and then re-epoxy like Glen suggested?

Greg

camper1 · Post by **camper1** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:08 pm

glass is already doubled, inside and out.

i'm not bummed too bad, cause it's been planned as a display for the past year. i just don't want to loose it.

camper1 · Post by **camper1** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:15 pm

pawistik · Post by **pawistik** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:40 am

I'm inclined to suggest as Greg says, try to push it back to normal. Guys, what would happen with gentle heat applied to the hull, together with pressure from a jig pushing the hull back to shape? You might not get it 100% but anything would help. Perhaps a space heater under the overturned hull would get the wood and epoxy warm enough to allow some movement. Heat lamps and enclosing the space with tarps or poly may help get that temperature up (what would be needed, 100F?). I don't expect this process would be real quick, maybe a couple of days? If our boats are susceptible to becoming hog-backed if stored in the sun/heat improperly, couldn't we take advantage of the same forces to move it the other way? I expect you'd lose some clarity of the glass/epoxy. Note that all of this is speculation on my part, maybe others can chime in with their ideas.

Regardless, I'd be surprised if your boat wasn't strong enough as is.

Cheers,
Bryan

AlanWS · Post by **AlanWS** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:14 pm

I agree that it's likely to be pretty strong as is, and worth a try. I'd just try paddling it around for a while first, to see how it handles, before taking it on a long trip. You can always try later to make changes, if they seem necessary. As long as you stay out of whitewater and high waves on a big lake, I doubt you'll have any problems.

camper1 · Post by **camper1** » Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:53 pm

what is notmal for flex in the center of the hull.... none, very little, ect...?

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:48 am

Place the canoe upside down on two sawhorses or other low supports, sit on floor and place your hands along the keel line, one ahead of the other and lift the canoe. If the hull flexes before the canoe lifts, I would say that is too much flex.

Now, flip canoe over and press down on the keel line. If the hull flexes under very little pressure, it flexes too much. If you have to press hard with both hands to make it flex, I would trust it.

camper1 · Post by **camper1** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 1:51 pm

well ok, i'll check that out.

thanks everyone for the input.