mis-matching centre football

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edmontonian
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:56 pm
Location: Edmonton

mis-matching centre football

Post by edmontonian »

Hi gang,

I am stripping the football section this weekend and next week. At the fourth strip past the stem, the pieces are no longer matching. I suspect this is due to a couple pieces on the opposite side of the football being slightly undersized.
Is there a fix I can use to get them matching up again?

Sincerely,

edmontonian.
canoeblderinmt
Posts: 415
Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2004 12:04 pm
Location: Butte, MT

Post by canoeblderinmt »

Dear Ed,
I don't think there is an easy or fast fix. I believe you could use a technique similar to what I used when I discovered that I was going to close in the football before I got over the stems. Follow the link:



http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/c ... t/BooBoos/

Hope that helps,

Greg
" Choose to chance the rapids, Dare to dance the tide..."
edmontonian
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:56 pm
Location: Edmonton

mis-matching centre football

Post by edmontonian »

Hi canoeblder,

Since correction prior to the football is not possible, I tested a couple of tapered strips on the football last night. It looks like it may take 3 or 4 to get things matched up again. There are only 8 strips left before the bottom is completed. Since the centre of my football is a yellow cedar and all of the rest is red, I will taper as many as required to make the final pieces look good.

Thanks for the tip.

edmontonian :eyebrows
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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Post by Woodchuck »

Ed,

I and I think everyone else also has this problem and it is due to both sides not being level, variances in strip width, etc. but I found a simple solution... At Woodcraft, I bought a little tool used to put a curved bevel on the edge of a piece of wood instead of sanding it. They come in several sizes and I got the one that makes 3/16" and 1/4" bevels. Much to my surprise, you can use the 1/4" side and put a good looking bead on a 1/4" thick strip.

When I ran into a strip that was too wide to align with the opposite side, I would chisel off a little bit of the bead tapering it back a few inches and then putting a bead back on with the tool. This makes the strip thinner and now it will align up OK. On some strips, I had to do it a few times but when it's done, it looks great. I only wish I had tried the tool a little earlier as I have one or two spots that I might have to fill but not too bad.

I don't know what they call the tool but it is about 5-6" long with a double offset on each end and then the oval slots on the ends of the bend metal. Cornering tool, beveling tool, etc. but I'm sure you can find it with this description. Another great tool is the Microplane. I used it for the stems, centerline and strips and it sure beats the he** out of a spokeshave. IMHO

CYA, Joe :eyebrows :eyebrows :eyebrows
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI
AlanWS
Posts: 209
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 4:30 pm
Location: Shorewood, WI

Post by AlanWS »

Woodchuck:

Brilliant!
Here is the tool:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?Fa ... 00&pcs=fam
Alan
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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Post by Woodchuck »

Thanks for the accolade... That is the tool in the link and it works great. My "football" has some pretty sharp corners and looks good. I bought the cornering tool for other woodworking projects and pulled it out as a last resort when trying to clean up some beads that I was making. My router setup was a little misaligned and I would get a nip at the ends like with a planer and I used the cornering tool to smooth out those beads. At the time, I was not aware of the football alignment problem but when it surfaced it's ugly head, I had the solution although I didn't remember it right away do to some normal memory loss problems that comes with age. Anyway, glad you thought it was worthwhile and accolades like "Brilliant" are always welcome. I even forwarded a link to my son so I could gloat a little more...
CYA :applause :applause :applause
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI
edmontonian
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:56 pm
Location: Edmonton

Post by edmontonian »

Hi Woodchuck,

You know, I swear the strongback was level and plumb when I began. The opposite end matches perfectly, so I am pretty sure that the level is fine. Somehow something happened to make make this issue occur. I will continue tapering pieces to close the football, but I am now aware of this problem and I can anticipate its presence next time. Forewarned is forearmed!

Yes indeed, that little tool is something we will all need at one time or another! Excellent tip!
Thanks, Woodchuck.
I am checking for it at Lee Valley here in Edmonton. It will definitely be purchased for the next build. Maybe a new level will also go along with that. LOL!
Canoebldrinmt gave me the tapering info to make the strips match up. I am taking off 3/16" over 6 strips and it looks pretty good. The thinning is not extreme, but I do want this detail managed in advance next time. Many thanks to you Canoebldrinmt. Things are working themselves out and I could not have done it without your assistance.
With this cornering tool idea, now we can all taper strips on the bead edge and then create a new bead edge very quickly. Sweet!
BTW, I am working on the last two closing strips tomorrow then on to the upper deck strips to finish fairing this weekend.

Sincere thanks,

edmontonian :big grin :laughing
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ealger
Posts: 387
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2004 5:14 pm

Offset strips

Post by ealger »

Ed, it's good that you are getting your stripping back in step.
Offsets can occur early in laying on strips as they rise on the vertical part of the stems. The left-right pair of strips can get offset if not pulled down tight in the haste to get them clamped or stapled to the stem or perhaps caused by hydraulic glue pressure. If the offset isn't corrected early, it's gets really bad once the stripping crosses the bilge point.

Using a 5/16" dia cove-bead helps reduce the hydraulic glue problem. (edit)
Ed...
Last edited by ealger on Wed Jun 25, 2008 12:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ed Alger
edmontonian
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:56 pm
Location: Edmonton

Post by edmontonian »

Hi guys,

Here is the same tool (in kit form) available from Lee Valley.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,42524

Hi ealger,

I think I will be making the 5/16" r bead and cove strips on the next canoe to avoid these hydraulic lock glue issues. The edges should also be stronger too, right?
BTW, I have traced back to the strips creating this issue. It is at the junction between strip 1 and 2 on the end of the stem, at the stern, and just as the football begins. These are not quite as tight as I would have hoped. I cannot make corrections back that far unless I decide to remove the whole football and start fresh from there. That seems a bit extreme to me. Good tip on the 5/16" strip b/c's.

Always very thankful for everybodies assistance.

Sincerely,

edmontonian :eyebrows
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ealger
Posts: 387
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2004 5:14 pm

Offset strips

Post by ealger »

With 5/16" d cove + bead, cutting the strips to .270" allows for a .010" edge. The strip will take a lot more abuse during the build and less slivers in the fingers too. There is a discussion in a thread on the forum about these cutters.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/ordersta ... flute.html

Also I wrote 5/16 radius. They are 5/16" dia.
Ed...
Ed Alger
edmontonian
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:56 pm
Location: Edmonton

Post by edmontonian »

Hi ealger,

I figured you meant d and not r. That would make one strange canoe with routed strips shaped using a set of bits that size. LOL! Holes everywhere??!!

The strips are still matching fine at the bow but are just slightly out at the stern. A remedy is coming shortly. Thanks for the bit link.

edmontonian
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