Thinner stems

edmontonian · Post by **edmontonian** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:58 pm

Hi All,

I am almost ready to begin fiberglassing the outer hull.
The inner and outer stems are only 1/2" thick. Note: The Bear Mountain Prospector stem forms were adjusted dimensionally to compensate for this thinner stem design.
With this dimension change of the stems in mind, would an application of bias-cut cloth tape be a good idea to increase stem strength prior to glassing the hull?
Stem bands will also be applied to the outer stems a few days before launching.

Advice is always more than welcome. :smile

Sincerely,
edmontonian

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:04 pm

It is best to apply the bias-cut strips after glassing the hull or at least after the wet-out coat. The reason is that when you feather the overlap. you will not wear through the main glass when the bias strips are over top. If the strips are beneath the hull cloth, you risk scraping or sanding through it at the overlap.

edmontonian · Post by **edmontonian** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:24 pm

Hi Glen,

I arrive home after work and your reply awaits me. Most excellent!

So, steps for the process include?
1) apply the hull glass,
2) apply the bias-cut cloth on the stems, and
3) finish the epoxy fill coats.

Thanks again.

edmontonian :eyebrows

Bryan Hansel · Post by **Bryan Hansel** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:16 pm

That's the order that I do it. I apply the extra glass at the stems during wetout of the hull glass. Saves time.

Jim Dodd · Post by **Jim Dodd** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:42 pm

In addition, I start with the widest strip first.
This will give you the best edge to feather.
Good luck
Jim

edmontonian · Post by **edmontonian** » Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:10 pm

Hi Jim,

Which strip is supposed to be the widest one?

edmontonian

Jim Dodd · Post by **Jim Dodd** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 5:15 am

Sorry!
When, and if you apply bias strips, I usually cut two , the widest, about 4in, and the other about 2.5in.

When it comes time to feather these, and I use a scraper, pocket knife, or razor blade, which ever is handiest.
I do this within a few days after everything has set, because it's still fairly soft, and easier to scrape.

Good Luck
Jim

Jim Dodd · Post by **Jim Dodd** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 5:19 am

You may want to make you bias strips wider !
I build the stemless technic, and do not have as much to cover.
Good Luck
Jim

AlanWS · Post by **AlanWS** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 12:16 pm

I agree that the first on strip should be widest, because you don't want to cut through when you smooth out the edges. I use three strips, 6", 4", and 2" wide, applied in that order.

edmontonian · Post by **edmontonian** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 4:55 pm

When these three bias strips are epoxied into position, does one begin from the bottom and work up, or start at the top of the stem and work down?

edmontonian

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 6:15 pm

Some builders lay out the bias strips on a piece of plastic, wet them out then apply them to the stem area. I tried this once and I had problems because the bias cut glass stretches out of shape very easily, especially when wet. Now what I do is apply epoxy to the stem area them lay on one strip (dry) and let it soak up a bit of epoxy to help keep it in place, brush on a bit more epoxy and apply another layer of bias cloth, etc, etc. I apply the strips from the inboard end of the stem and work down toward the sheer. You could also roll up the bias strips then unroll them in place one at a time. Squeegee with care so you don't move the strips, easier said than done!

Jim Dodd · Post by **Jim Dodd** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:05 pm

Is there a supplier that makes bias tape? If so that should work great !
Jim

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:15 am

I have used glass tape before, but not biased, and what I didn't like is the fact that it has a selvaged (sewn) edge. This edge is thicker and swells quite a bit when wet with epoxy and will have to be scraped off once hardened ( or partially ). If you cut if off before use, the tape will fall apart. I always use strips cut on the bias from left-over glass.

Jim Dodd · Post by **Jim Dodd** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:35 am

That's what I do too Glen.
I've not used tape, and wondered if it would leave a definite line?
Thanks !

Jim

edmontonian · Post by **edmontonian** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:18 pm

Hi again All,

Thanks for all of your input.
I think I will use scraps of cloth cut on the bias from the remnants of the hull cloth, considering I will order one meter more than needed for the canoe.
Working from the stem to the sheer sounds pretty straight forward. I am just slightly looking forward to this part of the build. The glassing portion is so finite in its design. Since I have never attempted glassing before, I am slightly shy/reluctant about this step. I suppose I cannot move forward without getting past this part first.
Thanks for all of the advice, everybody. I will gather my courage and move on from here.

Sincerely,

edmontonian