First Time Builder

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Davesbuild
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First Time Builder

Post by Davesbuild »

Hey All!
Great to read all of the knowledge base, tips and tricks on this board! I must say, very impressive craftsmanship (craftswomanship) - wonderful work by you all! I have learned alot from all of you.

I am in the early stages of building the 15'9" Huron Cruiser. Strongback is built from the plans in CanoeCraft. Local White Cedar purchased from local Conservation Authority Historic Water Powered Saw Mill. I have LOADS of cherry that I intend to use for some of the fancy stuff.

All cedar has been planed, ripped and shaped with B&C. I am considering using Ash for outer stems and white cedar for inner stems. Ash for outer gunwales - not sure about inwales - just know that they don't take as much of a beating as the outer. Any problem in using cherry for stems and outer gunwales? I was concerned that it might not be tough enough???? No WW here, just fishin' short trippin' and relaxin' on the Otonabee River and Kawartha Lakes watershed.

Am I headin' in the right direction so far?

Being my first canoe build, using staple construction - one must walk before one can run!
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

No problems I know of with cherry. It is often used for outer stems, gunwales and trimmings.

One note about the inwales, although they don't take as much of a beating as the outwales, they normally have to be drilled to support the seats and this creates a weaker spot. Some builders have used a lighter weight lumber such as spruce for inwales but I believe they normally make the inwales a bit thicker in the seating areas.

I preferred to run before I walked. :laughing I didn't want to make a bunch of staple holes in the pricey Western Red Cedar I used for my first two boats. Now I build with or without staples depending on the way I see the outcome of the boat I am building. It's a visualization thing. :thinking

Don't forget to post progress pics, we love pics!!!
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Davesbuild
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Post by Davesbuild »

Thanks Glen.

I like the idea of using the cherry for the outwales and outer stems because of the nice contrast with the white cedar. I think that it would look good, so long as the cherry is tough enough - sounds like it could be ok.

I understand that there are two schools of thought about whether to mount the seats from the underside if the inwale or from supports on the inside of the hull. I'm 235 lbs and am a little worried about puttin' my backside under the control of a 3/4" inwale strip! Still thinking about this one though :thinking I have read some of the postings on this same topic.

Thanks again.
Rick
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Post by Rick »

Dave,
I understand that there are two schools of thought about whether to mount the seats from the underside if the inwale or from supports on the inside of the hull. I'm 235 lbs and am a little worried...
No worries with drop bolts suspended from the inwales... I weigh about the same and my inwales were made from white pine. Strength tests showed that the pine was able to support much more, so spruce, cherry, etc, should be OK.

The Huron has narrow, fine ends and so is more trim-sensitive than fuller-ended canoes such as the Prospector... using drop bolts will allow you to move the locations of the seats more easily if the trim isn't perfect. Using a softer wood such as spruce for inwales (spruce was my first choice but I couldn't find any clear boards here and settled for pine) will allow you to remove them more easily. Chiselling out over thirty feet of hard ash and then sanding isn't something I'd look forward to.

The cherrywood will look great on the Huron. IMO, it has some of the best-looking lines in the Bear Mountain flotilla and it's no slouch on the water, tandem and solo. Enjoy!

PS... since it's a traditional design from the early 1900s, traditional rawhide seats are the only correct choice in a Huron! Here's a weave that produces a most attractive pattern, without drilling holes in the cherrywood... instructions provided in the web page. Instead of the saddle soap mentioned, use three coats of varnish to seal and protect the rawhide for a long-lasting, durable seat.

Image

http://www.knotworkn.com/Lacing.html
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ealger
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First Build

Post by ealger »

Dave, if you plan to walk first, then you might consider going stapleless. If you're not in a hurry, then stapleless might be your choice. Putting a bunch of holes in expensive cedar where so much time has been invested, doesn't seem like the thing to do :big grin
It takes a few extra spring clamps and a lot of blue masking tape, but to me it's worth the effort. I've only built 4 canoes but I feel stapleless construction lets me pay more attention to the B&C fit for a "gap-less" build.
Ed..
Ed Alger
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Davesbuild
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Post by Davesbuild »

Rick,
Thanks for the info. I was not aware of the "history" behind the Huron, I just like the "traditional" look and what I expect from the performance of the craft (sleek entry / exit and high sides with tumblehome) So quite possibly carriage bolts and mounted off the inner gunwale it is. Wasn't aware that the "trimming" was sensitive..good to know.

I hadn't thought of going with rawhide seats, but now I know that it is the "more authentic" way to go, I don't really have a choice - do I ! Awesome looking seat!! I'll have to do more research on that one - nice look though. Thanks for the post - I will certainly use it.

Ealger,
You might convince me?? As you are aware, lots of hours to this point getting strongback built, paning and ripping and shaping strips - what's a few more to get the clean look in the end... I'm on the fence on this due to my own "ability" to pull it off... I've done lots of woodworking, but never a canoe... I definitely do not want to go the "fishing line" technique... not for me thanks. Yuk!

I'll post pics when I get a little further along... forms are up and I am about to place the first strip likely later tonight!! Getting excited now!!! :twisted evil
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Davesbuild
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Post by Davesbuild »

OOPS!

I guess I'll have to form the stems first! :laughing
DaveA
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Location: St. George, Ontario

Post by DaveA »

Dave,
I too am a first time builder, and also plan to go stapleless. However, I do in fact plan to use the fishing line method. I attended a 1 day seminar at Lee Valley back in April, and the instructor, Steve Chapman, demonstated his technique using fishing line. He sold me on it.

Wondering why you are against it?

By the way Steve had is technique published in June's Wodden Boat magazine.

Another Dave
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

I saw Steve demonstrating the fishing line technique at the WCHA reunion in Peterborough this year. He said he has been teaching this method for a few years and he hadn't heard from anybody using it. He was a bit discouraged and had thoughts that he was wasting his time teaching this. I told him that some builders on this Forum had been using it and that brought back a smile to his face. I haven't tried it yet myself, maybe one of these days.
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Davesbuild
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Post by Davesbuild »

DaveA,

I have seen some of the pics and read the fishing line technique here in this forum.....it looks very complicated and messy to me... I think that I should try to keep the first one as simple as poss, so that I can concentrate on "the physical build" (keeping everything square, straight, bedding the strips) rather than a sharp learning curve about attaching and keeping the strips in place...just my two cents..others may disagree of course.... for me, I must use the K.I.S.S. methodology in mind here to be able to make a craft that I can be proud of when it is done...

Just to reiterate, it may be a good method - just not for me!

Dave
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