MAS Epoxy

white_tail · Post by **white_tail** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:41 pm

Has anybody used MAS Epoxy? I am wondering how it works, prices are alot cheaper than West system

ealger · Post by **ealger** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 11:05 am

I've used MAS Epoxy on 2 of my canoes and it has been used by builders for a long time. West is also popular and is widely available in retail stores.
MAS changed their formula a couple of years ago to shorted the set time. After the change, I found it to set a little too fast for my slow pace. At least one boat and canoe company is now recommending System 3 epoxy because of their longer set time.
Ed...

mikestenger · Post by **mikestenger** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 11:10 am

I used MAS Epoxy on my 15' Bob's Special and it worked beautifully! I had never fiberglassed anything before and was amazed at the results. I would use it again if/when I build my next boat.

white_tail · Post by **white_tail** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:15 pm

This is my first canoe and I want to do it right the first time, there is ALOT of difference in price between MAS and the West System. I am alittle confused by the differnce in prices, is the quaility the same?

mikestenger · Post by **mikestenger** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:29 pm

I elected to use MAS based on a local kayak builder's recommendation (Joe Greenley...Port Townsend, WA...RedFish Kayaks). He uses MAS exclusively and builds kayaks that are beyond exceptional. I am not familiar with West System and made my decision based on Joe's thoughts. My decision was made because of quality, not price.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:34 pm

You can obtain good results with just about any brand of epoxy if you know how it functions and reacts and what to expect of it. Of course, sticking with the better known brands is pretty well a guarantee of success but I suggest that whatever you buy, you obtain the manufacturer's info about their product and gather info from other builders who have used the selected brand under similar circumstances. Since temperature and humidity can have an effect on the final result, some brands work better in some parts of the world than others.
There is a lot of info on some epoxy brands at this link but some of it might be outdated since manufacturers are constantly modifying the formula of their product:

http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxtest.htm

I have used West Epoxy and I have used a very low-cost local brand of epoxy. Both have given me very good results in the final product but the low-cost was a lot harder to work with and a lot of information had to be gathered from the manufacturer and from personal tests. With a well reknowned epoxy you can easily obtain very good results if you follow the instructions.

I recommend that you make a test panel of glued up short strips and that you test your chosen epoxy and fiberglass on this before using it on a canoe hull.

A personal thought on epoxy pricing: I believe that the manufacturers price their epoxy according to the confidence builders already have in their name and the price they think they can obtain for their product. This does not mean it is twice as good as another brand that costs half the price. Of course, anything designed for "marine use" automatically comes with a high price tag!

willo · Post by **willo** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:34 pm

Glen I have read that epoxy study before . He claims that East System blush's bad under any condiitions. I had no blush on any of my coats using East so I would question the data on that study.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:45 pm

That is why I added this line:

There is a lot of info on some epoxy brands at this link but some of it might be outdated since manufacturers are constantly modifying the formula of their product:

Vaclav used the slow hardener (834). Is this what you used or did you use the super slow hardener (835)? Usually, the slower the hardener, the less risk of blushing.

Larry in Champaign · Post by **Larry in Champaign** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 8:59 am

For value, don't overlook US Composites. http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

I used their thin resin and slow hardener on two boats and it works great.

Larry

white_tail · Post by **white_tail** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 9:13 am

Thanks for all of the advise and extra information. I am planning on purchasing my supplies next week.

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:05 pm

The EAST system is actually cheaper than the MAS epoxy (or so I was told today by Noah's)... I bought my epoxy today - EAST system.

Just my two cents...

edmontonian · Post by **edmontonian** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:08 am

Hi Gang,
I have just about completed fiberglassing the outer hull of a Prospector using East System with slow hardener. It worked excellent through all coats. No blushing at all with temps as low as 12 degrees Celsius. This gave me a 35 minute window before excess epoxy needed removal. It worked out very well even though I was working alone.
Using a squeegee has left a few dark vertical lines down the hull. I tried a roller at a few sections and did not have this staining occur on those areas. The rollers speed of application may prevent vertical epoxy lines from discoloring the strips. Plus, the same size batches can be applied almost twice as fast using a roller.
Be sure to "tip out" the trapped air bubbles during roller application of the filler coats. Those bubbles can get trapped in the epoxy as it is applied. Not a huge deal, but if you like a very clean look on the hull, bubbles should be removed with a brush before the epoxy sets.
With just one East system fiberglassing experience behind you, your experience should lead to improved results for the next project, because if you are like me, one is never enough.

Enjoy!

edmontonian :smile

white_tail · Post by **white_tail** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:03 pm

I have been told that I can not reuse the epoxy that I have removed from the hull from the West system, but the MAS epoxy can be reused something to do with a bubble releasing agent. Is there any truth to this?

Juneaudave · Post by **Juneaudave** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 12:31 am

My experience with MAS has been that you can be more aggressive applying MAS Slow than West if you are rolling or painting. Bubbles introduced with MAS Slow will (most likely) dissipate before curing...West has a much shorter open time so you need to follow the instructions in CanoeCraft.

Bottom line...IMHO...I would not re-use the squeegee'd excess from any epoxy...I might be more agressive in the application of MAS Slow over West...Cheers...Jneaudave

The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

MAS Epoxy

MAS Epoxy

MAS Epoxy

This is my first canoe

Thanksfor the information

Trapped air bubbles in MAS