Wood for gunwales?

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Cam
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:48 pm

Wood for gunwales?

Post by Cam »

Hey, I'm still a ways off from this point, but starting to collect the wood...Most people seem to use ash for gunwales, but all the lumberyards near me want an arm and a leg for ash, so I picked up some maple to use instead.

Now, after buying the maple, I came across a place that sells ash specifically for gunwales, 20' lengths, at a relatively reasonable price. He told me that I HAVE to use ash, because any other wood, when it comes in contact with moisture, will turn black. Is he BS'ing me so I buy his product? I plan to couterbore and plug the screw holes, and varnish the gunwales, so I can't see an easy path for water to get in in the first place, but...I don't want black stains on my canoe! I also have enough maple to build the seats from, and would like the seats and gunwales to match, so a change of woodwould mean getting ash for the seats as well. :rolling eyes

Thanks for the help guys!

Cam
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Glen Smith
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Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith »

Ash can also be a victim of black fungus if you neglect to care regulary for the finish. It happened on one of my canoes. Now I apply 3 coats of epoxy on the gunwales before applying varnish.

Lots of builders prefer to just apply oil to the gunwales and this requires regular re-application to prolong the protection. Storage out of the elements goes a long way to preserving the quality of the finish also.
Cam
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:48 pm

Post by Cam »

Okay, but really it's just a matter of maintenance, not material? He made it sound as if there was absolutly no way around it...which I figured was wrong. So, as long as the maple is properly sealed, it is no more likely to stain than any other wood, right? So, a couple coats of thinned epoxy, with a couple coats of varnish over top will seal it up tight? Thanks for the help!
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Glen Smith
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Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith »

Actually if you apply 4 or 5 coats of diluted varnish followed by 3 coats of full strength varnish and do touch-ups whenever the varnish gets chipped, it should be fine for a very long time.
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Jim Dodd
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Location: Iowa

Post by Jim Dodd »

Ash is more flexable than Maple, other than that it should work.
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Cam
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:48 pm

Post by Cam »

Cool, thank you for the help guys. Trying to get all the wood and other supplies together now so I can finish my canoe without too much more expense after Christmas...this quarter's bonus will be good, but next quarter isn't looking as promising... Got the wood for the gunwales and seats (even got extra to try my hand at paddle carving!), found a local place that stocks the stem banding, and found what I think is a screaming deal (well, compared to other places) for West System epoxy and fibreglass cloth...now for the shopping, and re-arranging the garage so I can store everything until I actually need it... :twisted evil
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ealger
Posts: 387
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2004 5:14 pm

Post by ealger »

Cam, sounds like you're having some fun.
If you found a good deal on the fibreglass, I hope it is rolled and not folded. Perhaps you already know that folded fibreglass can give some problems trying to get the creases to lay flat.
Ed...

PS, get an extra yard to cut your bias tapes.
Ed Alger
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pawistik
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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 11:20 pm
Location: Saskatoon, SK

Post by pawistik »

Each wood has pros & cons.

Ash is strong and flexes well, and resists shocks well. That's why good old hockey sticks were made of ash.

I don't see why maple couldn't be used, though it will be more difficult to work with. Ash will be easier to mill and easier to plane than maple which will be harder on the blades. Maple is heavier, so expect a weight penalty in the canoe. However, since it's also stronger, you can make up for some of that weight by making the dimmensions smaller. Make sure your gunwales are not big and blocky, but sleek. If you use scuppered gunwales, consider making the scuppers a bit larger. The same goes for all of the other wood components. Your yoke should have a bit of flex to act as a bit of a shock absorber, as long as it doesn't crack, which would result in much more shock. ;)

Maple gunwales may be more likely to crack if you get into trouble with your canoe and it get's pushed against a rock in rapids. On the other hand, maple gunwales will take more abuse from paddle pries, rubbing against the roof rack, etc.

I made a paddle out of maple and ash laminated. Since these woods are strong, the paddle blade and shaft are thinner than usual. The paddle flexes nicely and despite the heavy hardwoods, is a good weight, maybe even light.

I think a canoe with maple gunwales and outfitting would look great.

Cheers,
Bryan
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