Titebond 3

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pwstndrf
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 10:24 pm
Location: Saginaw, Michigan

Re: Titebond 3

Post by pwstndrf »

Grumple,

Keep us informed and post pictures as you progress in your build.

phil w.
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Grumple
Posts: 108
Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:38 am
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia

Re: Titebond 3

Post by Grumple »

Will do!

So far all I have is a bunch of ripped cedar strips and the beginnings of a few accent strips. Once I have something worth showing I'll start a proper journal.

EDIT:

Just to follow up on this post....I did buy a bottle of this on the weekend and used it to scarf portions of my accent strips. So far, so good! It seems to be pretty strong, and dries quite clear.

My only problem with it at all is that it took a long time to set strongly enough to unclamp with confidence. The temperature was low-ish (ie 15 C), and humidity was a bit high if that matters. The bottle says unstressed joints can be unclamped after 30 mins. I unclamped one strip as a test after an hour and it immediately came apart with still-moist glue in the joint.

From that point on I just left the strips in the clamps for a full 24 hours, and they came out rock solid. I may have just used too much glue; I had a lot of squeeze out when applying clamps.
canoecrafter
Posts: 20
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:22 am
Location: Rice Lake, WI

Re: Titebond 3

Post by canoecrafter »

Titebond III is perfectly fine for stripping, even with the light-colored northern white cedar I use. An added bonus is it's waterproofness, so it can be used to laminate stem pieces. When gluing up bent stem laminates, it's much nicer to use than epoxy (less slippery) works just as well, and cleans up with water.
When people figure out what's important in Life, there's gonna be a big shortage of canoes.
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Jim Dodd
Posts: 1359
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:08 pm
Location: Iowa

Re: Titebond 3

Post by Jim Dodd »

I've been using Titebond III the Ultimate on my latest build.

I like the work time and strength, but I wish it wasn't so runny !

When gluing the strips on the flat of the bottom, it runs out of the joint before you can get a strip in place.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
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Cruiser
Posts: 867
Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:21 am
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario

Re: Titebond 3

Post by Cruiser »

I have done quite a bit of reading and video watching on using glues on the stem lamination. Whether it is Gorilla or Titebond, the drawback is that they need very tight fitting joints and aren't suitable for any gap filling.

That doesn't mean they will fall apart, just that anywhere the gap exceeds a mill or so, it is far weaker at that point. That is why glue joints require serious clamping and epoxy doesn't.

The other issue I have is working time, sometimes the extra time afforded by the epoxy is just really nice to have when something doesn't go as expected.

As far as stripping goes, I think most of the decent wood glues are going to be more than adequate, so whatever you like is probably the best for you to use.


my $.02

Brian
pwstndrf
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 10:24 pm
Location: Saginaw, Michigan

Re: Titebond 3

Post by pwstndrf »

Another point to consider: The shock loads the stem sees in normal use can impart high stress on the laminated stem. If for any reason there is a failure in the coating encapsulating the laminated stem your going to have major problems with anything other Epoxy. TB III, Gorilla Glue and all the others that are "water resistant" can and eventually will fail when exposed to moisture.
Epoxy is NOT a mistery, and is very easy to work with. Measure it, Stir it, apply it, clamp it and wait, easy stuff, eh. It's best to get used to it as as the build progresses your going to have to deal with it. The more experience you have with it the better. Been there done it! Just another's $0.02 worth.
Dorf
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