Have now cut the gunwales, to Scupper or to Not?

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NomadShawn
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Have now cut the gunwales, to Scupper or to Not?

Post by NomadShawn »

So I have 4 amazing peices of 18 foot mahogany, they are 3/4 by 1 inch, and will make great gunwales I think, just debating about the whole scupper thing. Any inpu much apprecitated
Thanks
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

Scuppers will reduce the weight, supply anchoring points for tieing gear so you don't lose it in case of a capsize and allow drainage when the boat is turned over. They also look traditional.
NomadShawn
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Post by NomadShawn »

I see Glen is for scuppers!! Thanks for your opinion, and I looked at your way of doing it, which was with a drillpress after taping the two pieces together. then using a table saw to remove the access, I like that way, and may be for it. Any other opinions are appreciated
Thanks
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

If you taper the ends of the inwales, don't place any scuppers too close to the ends.
After cutting out the scuppers, tape the inwales together again and use a round over bit in a router to round over the edges. Figure out the seat spacing to know where to position the scuppers. They don't all need to have the same spacing or same dimension, lengthwise.
The inwales may require a bevel on the hull side face if you want the tops of the inwales to be level across the width of the canoe.
NomadShawn
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Post by NomadShawn »

wait after the gunwales are all on can you not just sand it al down to make it all even? I am not sure exactly where you are saying there should be a bevel
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

If the inwales are not level across and you want them to be level, you should cut a bevel on the face of the inwale that will be attached to the inner hull at the shearline. This way the inwales will conserve their height. If you sand them down level, they will then be tapered in a way that in the inward edge will be thinner. If the hull has tumblehome, The opposite edge (toward hull) will be thinner.
NomadShawn
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Post by NomadShawn »

Yes Glen, much undestood, I will be tapering and beveling them to reflect a flush level lok for obvious reasons, thanks for the heads up, you have been very helpful for me, Thanks so much
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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith »

You are very welcome, don't forget to post progress pics. We love pics! :pictures
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John Michne
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Post by John Michne »

Another way to make scuppers is to epoxy scupper blocks to the inwale. I describe this on my web site. Here is a direct link to the scupper article:

http://www.michneboat.com/Gunwales.htm

- John
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Larry in Champaign
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Post by Larry in Champaign »

Here is another idea in jigs for making scuppers.

Image

I made this jig for routing the scuppers. The router goes into the jig closest to the near edge. This leaves the ¾" bit clear of the work. Once fired up, I move the router to the right, rear, and left sides to cut a 3/8" scupper. After cutting the scuppers I used an 1/8" roundover bit on the scuppers and inside edges, both on the top and bottom of the inwales.

Image

I placed my scuppers every 3" leaving 6" of solid inwale for the center yoke and seat mounts. After marking the spacing on the inwales and marking the area to scupper with an X (background), I clamped the inwale in the jig using reference marks drawn on the bottom of the jig. I used wedge clamps (scraps from scarf cuts) to eliminate any inwales movement while routing. This prevents blowout during routing. This photo shows the result.

Larry
Rick
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Post by Rick »

I did not scupper the inwales because I felt that the glue joint along the entire length of the inwale would be stronger if it was unbroken by gaps created by scuppers. I was using light and soft white pine so the possibility that some impact could break the inwale more easily was there if it was scuppered. Your mahogany might be some species that is stronger and resists splitting better.

I didn't know exactly where I'd be drilling the inwale for seats in order to acheive proper trim so any complications with seat location were avoided.

The outwales were thin 3/16 ash to save weight, and fastened with screws, so the need for a full-length, rigid glue joint on the inwale was greater because of this.

Varnishing the insides of scuppers could be a pain over the long term so that was another reason to leave them out.

IMO, thin, solid inwales and outwales look good. Some will prefer the scuppered look, and I really can't say at this time whether I'll be building them in another canoe. In cedarstrips they aren't really needed since you can get water to drain out on the portage by bevelling the undersides of the inwale.
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Davesbuild
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Post by Davesbuild »

I did scupper my inwales. I concur with Glen, good place to tie off gear. I also agree with Rick, they do not have as much "glue surface" to the hull. I doweled and used brass screws on almost every-other scupper to compensate for this.

One more "pro" is that it makes it easier to get the water out of the canoe when turned over. With the solid inwales, I suspect that the water travels to the bow and stern? and stays in the canoe...

I also like the traditional look of the scuppers.

Just my humble opinion...

http://home.cogeco.ca/~hotrods/Canoebuild/

Davesbuild
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pawistik
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Post by pawistik »

Davesbuild wrote:One more "pro" is that it makes it easier to get the water out of the canoe when turned over. With the solid inwales, I suspect that the water travels to the bow and stern? and stays in the canoe...
If a person didn't want to use scuppers (perhaps they prefer a very simple look), then angling the underside of the inwale would simply take care of any water-retention issues in the overturned canoe. Un-scuppered gunwales could also be made somewhat narrower than could the scuppered version.

Other means of creating tie-down points could be devised.

I have nothing against scuppered gunwales, I'm just suggesting that there are ways to work around some of what has been mentioned above.

Cheers,
Bryan
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