Installing outer stems

lamarkeiko · Post by **lamarkeiko** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:15 pm

:confused I am almost done planking my Prospector canoe, so I have been reading ahead in the Canoecraft book to see the procedure for installing the outer stems. It mentions to tqper the outside stem end and cut a mortice into the planking to about one inch of the end of the inner stem to prevent a hole in the hull. My problem is that I have been following the Canoecraft instructions. and trimmed all the planking ends in advance as mentioned on page 124. My planking has been trimmed to about 1 1/4" of the inner stem already. There is not much left to mortice. Can I cut a little closer than 1" to the inner stem, say 1/2', and do a very short taper and mortice? Also, my outer stem is 3/4" wide, which is what is shown on the Bearmountain Prospector plans. Any advice will be appreciated.
Lamar

Larry in Champaign · Post by **Larry in Champaign** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:25 pm

Could you post a photo of where you are right now?

lamarkeiko · Post by **lamarkeiko** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:57 pm

I took some pictures of where I'm at today, but I can't figure out how to post them.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:01 pm

You can follow the instructions I posted here: http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... php?t=1150

Or you can take the easy route out and email the pics to me. I will post them for you.
glen@charlevoix.net

lamarkeiko · Post by **lamarkeiko** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:48 am

Thanks for the help Glen. I hope this works [img]http://i541.photobucket.co

m/albums/gg364/lamarkeiko/

162_6288.jpg[/IMG]

lamarkeiko · Post by **lamarkeiko** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:00 pm

Here is another photo.

lamarkeiko · Post by **lamarkeiko** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:03 pm

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:15 pm

The same thing happened to me on my first canoe build. I ended up leaving the outer stems a bit wider than recommended and filled in the "missing space" on either side with thickened, colored epoxy. Nobody has ever noticed it.

lamarkeiko · Post by **lamarkeiko** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 3:13 pm

Thanks Glen. That looks good. A good woodworker can cover his mistakes so no one else can tell.

Lamar

Larry in Champaign · Post by **Larry in Champaign** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:14 pm

I went back and reread the section on trimming strips in Canoecraft and can see why you did what you did. As Glen says, it can be fixed and little noticed, especially after you get some good scratches installed in that area. Your canoe is looking real good and your next one will be even better.

Here is some advice for your next canoe. From the shear to about half way around the bend in the stem you should trim the strips parallel to the exposed leading edge of the inner stem. From this point (which shouldn’t leave more strip end grain width exposed than the width of the outer stem) up to within 1-1/2” of the inner stem the strips should be trimmed perpendicular to the leading edge of the inner stem. This trimming will leave a channel the width of the leading edge of the inner stem (1/8” for ¼” strips, ¼” for 3/16” strips). It is this channel that will be opened up as a mortise to fit the tapered outer stem. I bend and laminate both inner and outer stems at the same time and slice a reference line where the stem extends beyond the shear. This reference line will aid in alignment of the two stems while cutting the mortise and while gluing the outer stem in place.

I hope this helps on your next canoe,

Larry

mtpocket · Post by **mtpocket** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 7:05 pm

lamarkeiko,

I read your first thread. Are your strips already cut back/down to the level of your inner stem? I see the lines you made showing your inner stem. Unless I am mistaking, it may not be too late to make a nice deep mortice and still stop before the end of the inner stem.

I looked back at some of the other threads on this subject and found some information you might find helpful.

Here is a thread you should read:http://bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2/vie ... ht=mortice

Here is a link to some pictures Glen Smith has that are very good in showing us what it is all supposed to look like: http://woodcanoes.multiply.com/photos/a ... uter_Stems

lamarkeiko · Post by **lamarkeiko** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:51 pm

My strips are already cut down to the level of the inner stem, but I stopped just a little more than 1' from the end of my inner stem. My original question was, could I cut a short taper on my outer stem which was about 3/4' long into the planking that hasn't been cut down to the inner stem? I was thinking I could go about 1/2' to the end of the inner stem. Just making sure that I didn't cut so far back that I will expose a hole in the hull.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:53 pm

You can get as close as you dare to the inner stem end. Just don't go beyond it.

canoeblderinmt · Post by **canoeblderinmt** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:42 pm

Yet ANOTHER thread that makes me glad I build stem-less!

Just kidding. I am actually toying with putting stems on the BMB Prospector I hope to start this winter, but every time a thread like this shows up I always have second thoughts. I guess we'll see if I can ever get back to building.... :rolling eyes

Greg

Larry in Champaign · Post by **Larry in Champaign** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:04 pm

You might try gluing strips on top of the flat area, with the grain matching the existing strips. You will only need 3-4 strips on each side (I'm guessing) to get to the point where the flat is the width of your outer stem. You could then proceed with tapering your outer stems and cutting the mortise. Once sanded down you should only see a slim glue line where the patch was added.

When you are done, if you don't like what you see, you may consider covering the area with epoxy rock guard like they use on the tips of paddles. I have no idea where to get the rock guard, but it would look good and you could tell people it is for abrasion resistance (which wouldn't be a total lie).

Just some ideas for you to consider,

Larry