I have just finished the final glassing of my Endeavour Kayak and am now ready to start working on the openings, coaming and hatch trim. It seems that there are lots of different approaches to these next steps and I am not finding the necessary guidance in Kayakcraft.
First the coaming. I have purchased the coaming kit from Bear Mountain but I think I want to use ash for the lip. I’ll use the plywood pieces to build-up the frame and then ash. I have seen references to installing each layer one-by-one requiring eight different sessions. I have also seen instruction about gluing-up all the frame pieces together at one time on top of the deck but not gluing the deck, doing likewise for the lip and then the next step being to glue the built-up frame to the deck and the lip on top of that. I have also found instruction about doing the whole thing at one time.
There also seems to be differing views whether it is better to have all the pieces shaped prior to installation or not, whether the key-hole shape (as I intend to use) should be part of all layers or only the lip, and the installation of a basswood (or other wood) block tying together the symmetrical halves of coaming. My kit did come with these small pieces to make blocks but no instruction.
I am also not clear if I need to fibreglass the coaming since the frame will be plywood or if the varnish at the end of the process will provide sufficient protection.
Regarding the hatches. Again, I bought the kits but would like to use ash for the trim pieces on top of the deck and the supplied plywood pieces for the part under the deck. Kayakcraft seems to be suggesting construction of the trim pieces (if made from hardwood stock) as a single frame and bending it across the crest of the deck. The Kit pieces are milled as half-pieces supporting installation like the coming with a break in the middle. Kayakcraft also speaks about the grain of the hatch trim all running longitudinal, even on the parts running across the deck, but this doesn’t make sense unless you have extremely wide stock.
As you can see, I have lots of questions about the construction and installation of the coaming and the hatch trim. I am really looking for tried and true guidance. Sorry if this post is a bit incoherent. I am having a lot of trouble understanding the instruction in Kayakcraft and finding a solution that will give the best results. I have appreciated the advice I have received from previous forum postings and hope to get more good information here. Once I get stage done, I’ll probably come back to the forum seeking advice on the installation of the seat, foot pegs and rudder. Thanks everyone.
Kayak Openings, Coaming and Hatch Trim
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Gene Burreson
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2004 12:20 pm
- Location: Gloucester, Virginia, USA
Alan,
If you can afford it, I would recommend you buy Ted's and Greg Rossell's book called Kayaks You Can Build. It has good directions for the keyhole cockpit and the spline joint tying together the two halves of the cockpit spacer.
The purpose of the keyhole is to give you a bit more room, but also allow for attachment of foam blocks on the underside for knee braces. Thus, the keyhole shape must be on all layers, including the cockpit cutout. I would glue the spacer pieces for each side together at one time on the boat, but not glue them to the deck. It is a little tricky, but Kayaks You Can Build has a good description of how to do it. Once you get the seam between the two halves properly fit, then trace the cockpit cutout onto the bottom of the spacer and cut to fit on both inner and outer surfaces. Then glue the spacers to the deck. Cut out a notch at each end for the spline and glue them in place. Then glue the rim on. If you are going to use a single piece of ash on each side, it could be bent and glued all at one time. Kayaks You Can Build also recommends a piece of fiberglass cloth under the rim at each end to reinforce the butt joint.
Good luck,
Gene
If you can afford it, I would recommend you buy Ted's and Greg Rossell's book called Kayaks You Can Build. It has good directions for the keyhole cockpit and the spline joint tying together the two halves of the cockpit spacer.
The purpose of the keyhole is to give you a bit more room, but also allow for attachment of foam blocks on the underside for knee braces. Thus, the keyhole shape must be on all layers, including the cockpit cutout. I would glue the spacer pieces for each side together at one time on the boat, but not glue them to the deck. It is a little tricky, but Kayaks You Can Build has a good description of how to do it. Once you get the seam between the two halves properly fit, then trace the cockpit cutout onto the bottom of the spacer and cut to fit on both inner and outer surfaces. Then glue the spacers to the deck. Cut out a notch at each end for the spline and glue them in place. Then glue the rim on. If you are going to use a single piece of ash on each side, it could be bent and glued all at one time. Kayaks You Can Build also recommends a piece of fiberglass cloth under the rim at each end to reinforce the butt joint.
Good luck,
Gene
Thanks Gene. This was very good advise indeed. I was able to get this book from my local library and it did provided me with some of the missing information I was needing. I also found some good ideas and information about rudder installation including a nifty s/s mounting plate that a local fabrication shop is making-up for me for about $50.00.
Thanks again for the advice, it was very helpful.
Thanks again for the advice, it was very helpful.