I have several small gaps between my outwale and strips. They are maybe 1mm wide, with a few that are 2-3mm. The gaps don't go all the way through, it's just the top 3 or 4mm I'm guessing. I can't decide whether to try and fill them with straight epoxy or thickened epoxy. Either will work okay, I think it's a matter of which one will be easier to clean up. With thickened epoxy I will have to mask off the adjacent wood, squish the epoxy into the gap, remove the masking tape, then sand where the epoxy bled under the tape. With straight epoxy I would mask the adjacent wood and try to use some type of needle syringe to get the epoxy into the gaps. Either way I can imagine significant (ie annoying) epoxy clean-up time.
I figure a lot of people must have dealt with the same issue, what do you suggest?
thanks
filling small gaps between outwale and strips
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
I've never had this problem but I would suggest that you use thickened epoxy. The clean-up won't really be that different from unthickened epoxy. If any of the gaps are on an incline, the epoxy would run out (or "sag"). Your approach for masking makes sense. You can probably use a plastic scraper or putty knife to smooth it out before it sets and then sand down the last little bit after the tape is removed and the epoxy has cured. It will be easy.
Thanks Randy.
Lately in similar situations I have tried to avoid smoothing out. I find that it helps push or bleed the epoxy under the tape. It is very easy to scrape (or sand) the unsmoothed epoxy after it has hardened. Often times the epoxy needs to be smoothed or coaxed into the gap though.
cheers
Lately in similar situations I have tried to avoid smoothing out. I find that it helps push or bleed the epoxy under the tape. It is very easy to scrape (or sand) the unsmoothed epoxy after it has hardened. Often times the epoxy needs to be smoothed or coaxed into the gap though.
cheers
Hey Sluggo.
I recently reparied an old fiberglass canoe and had some gaps below the top of the new gunnels and the fiberglass. i used thickened epoxy and filled the gap then sanded ,it looks great. In your case if your gaps are not running the entire length of the gunnells then you will see distinct lines that are interrupted by the tight fitting gunnells.
I recently reparied an old fiberglass canoe and had some gaps below the top of the new gunnels and the fiberglass. i used thickened epoxy and filled the gap then sanded ,it looks great. In your case if your gaps are not running the entire length of the gunnells then you will see distinct lines that are interrupted by the tight fitting gunnells.
So far it's turned out okay. The thickened epoxy shows, but it blends in well with the ceder. I have lighter colored gunwales (cherry and ash) sandwiching the cedar hull which went quite dark after applying the varnish. Oh well, another slight "oops" that looks okay and is good material for improvement on the "next one."