Whats the most effecient error free stapleless method?
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edmontonian
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:56 pm
- Location: Edmonton
I used the Ted Moores Canoecraft "c clamp and wedges" stapleless method and placed dowels into the coves for the glue-up. It was definitely not a race to finish. Next time I am quite interested in more speed. I may consider using the bungee cord and strap method to complete a Freedom 17/9 for the spring of 2011.
edmontonian
edmontonian
For my first boat I used staples
For my second I used the fishing line method. Two things I would note--One--this is a little challenging to do if you are working alone--and as the strips get close to the stem forms, or as the football narrows, there will be spots where a whole reel of fishing line won't fit through. I solved this problem by cutting leftover strips into short (five inch?) lengths and cutting the ends into V shapes, then winding fishing line on them (parallel the long axis.) The "fishingline shuttles" would fit into narrow spaces. Also, tying off fishingline with glue on your fingers? Not the easiest thing in the world, though the trucker's hitch works, and it's helpful to drive a few screws into the side of the strongback to have something to tie off to.
I found it easiest to wind from the middle of the canoe to the ends--for some reason winding the other way made it harder to handle the twists and bends the strips had to make to follow the forms.
It took me about half an hour to put on each strip this way. I built cove down so the fishing line wouldn't bite into the coves, except for the bottom cove which will be sanded off to match the gunwales anyway. The bottom cove did get pretty chewed up this way. I wouldn't recommend it for one of those designs where you don't start at the sheer.
I would recommend doing the planks up to the turn of the bilge with a heavier test, then switching to a lighter one. If I use this method again I will probably start with 20 pound test and switch to 15 or 12 pound after the turn of the bilge. This is because on my canoe the cumulative compression of all those layers of tight fishing line pushed the strips away from the forms (despite wrapping the line around screws in the forms.) It was only about 3 /16 of an inch on each side, but still. I worked hard on those forms and they were there for a reason. (Though the final boat did come out nicely and despite the slightly greater width is still very sleek and fast.)
TL:DR I will sum up. Fishing line worked, but took me about 30 minutes per strip. If you use it, I recommend heavier test for the part near the gunnwales and lighter test for the part near the keel.
I'm considering using the hot glue method for my next one.
For my second I used the fishing line method. Two things I would note--One--this is a little challenging to do if you are working alone--and as the strips get close to the stem forms, or as the football narrows, there will be spots where a whole reel of fishing line won't fit through. I solved this problem by cutting leftover strips into short (five inch?) lengths and cutting the ends into V shapes, then winding fishing line on them (parallel the long axis.) The "fishingline shuttles" would fit into narrow spaces. Also, tying off fishingline with glue on your fingers? Not the easiest thing in the world, though the trucker's hitch works, and it's helpful to drive a few screws into the side of the strongback to have something to tie off to.
I found it easiest to wind from the middle of the canoe to the ends--for some reason winding the other way made it harder to handle the twists and bends the strips had to make to follow the forms.
It took me about half an hour to put on each strip this way. I built cove down so the fishing line wouldn't bite into the coves, except for the bottom cove which will be sanded off to match the gunwales anyway. The bottom cove did get pretty chewed up this way. I wouldn't recommend it for one of those designs where you don't start at the sheer.
I would recommend doing the planks up to the turn of the bilge with a heavier test, then switching to a lighter one. If I use this method again I will probably start with 20 pound test and switch to 15 or 12 pound after the turn of the bilge. This is because on my canoe the cumulative compression of all those layers of tight fishing line pushed the strips away from the forms (despite wrapping the line around screws in the forms.) It was only about 3 /16 of an inch on each side, but still. I worked hard on those forms and they were there for a reason. (Though the final boat did come out nicely and despite the slightly greater width is still very sleek and fast.)
TL:DR I will sum up. Fishing line worked, but took me about 30 minutes per strip. If you use it, I recommend heavier test for the part near the gunnwales and lighter test for the part near the keel.
I'm considering using the hot glue method for my next one.