Planks not level, help!!!

raschiller · Post by **raschiller** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:45 pm

I'm in the process of building a prospector ranger. I've laid about 6 strips thus far. I've run into a problem. I've discovered that the sides are not level with each other. One side is about 1/8" higher than the other. Is there a way to fix this? What are the consequences (i.e. not floating level in the water, the keel not matching up)? I've got a couple pictures, but can't figure out how to post them.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:02 am

I don't think it will be a problem from a functionality point of view, but you will have a serious issue asthetic issue on the bottom of the canoe if you are going to cut the cenerline and try to match it up. The planks on my current canoe are about 1/4" from matching perfectly. Working through the trigonometry, that means that the planks were 1/32" off level, my centerline was 1/32" off, or the cululative error in my plank width added up to 1/32", or a combination thereof. Truth be known, I was very anal in making sure the first planks were level, all strips were checked with a micrometer, etc. In hindsight, I should have ripped a strip in my football a bit narrower when I identified the problem, but I didn't think it was that big of a deal. It still looks great!

This picture was shot "blind" up into the bottom of the canoe while I was stripping the football.

[/quote]

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:46 am

You can glue in a thin cheater strip to make up the difference if you want to keep the strips lined up when they reach the football.

There should be an excess of strip material at the sheerline so that the excess can be chiselled off to shape the sheerline accurately... otherwise glue an extra strip in amidships so that both sides will be identical.

Adamv · Post by **Adamv** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:52 am

No problem. Glue in a little cheater strip and all will be well.

http://www.avoisin.com/album/canoe/slid ... 20080.html

http://www.avoisin.com/album/canoe/slid ... 20081.html

I had to do it, and you'd never notice unless you looked carefully.

Cheers,
Adam

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:33 am

If you are only 6 strips up on each side, I guess you are saying that they are not even because you can see that one side is higher than the other at the stems, right?

Are you working with bead and cove strips? Did one strip on one side not engage completely with the previous strip? This will create a weak joint and an air pocket.

If you just want to get the strips at an even height, plane 1/8" off the bead edge of the next strip to go on the higher of the two sides and reshape a new bead with a plane and sandpaper. This will reduce the width of that strip by 1/8" and even up the strips at the stems.

Are all your strips the same width to start with?

raschiller · Post by **raschiller** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:04 pm

Beautiful canoe!!!

Thanks for the great ideas. When I lined up the first plank on both sides I used a level at the center and then matched the ends on the inner stems. I ordered 8' long bead and cove white cedar strips and what I didn't realize was that the joint on one of the sides of the first plank dried in a slight upward "V". So I had to pull that plank and redo. I forgot to level that plank and just placed it in the same location as the bad "V" plank. Looking at the stems on both sides, one side appears to be about 1/8" higher and the level confirms that.

I'm not sure (beyond aesthetics) what the consequences will be. Will the canoe not float level?

Any recommendations on how to take 1/8" off 16" of cedar strip? I did not cut or bead and cove them myself.

I have a picture that would better show you all what happened, but I can't figure out how to get load it. Any recommendations? I'm a little hesitant to load pics after seeing how great everybody else's canoe looks!

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:17 pm

See this link for posting photos: http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... php?t=1150

To remove 1/8" just plane it off and reform the bead with a plane and sandpaper as I suggested. Another method that might work is to rip a strip in 2 using the tablesaw with a blade that has a 1/8" kerf then gluing the 2 halves back together again. This will produce a strip that is 1/8" narrower but still has the bead and cove on it.

AlanWS · Post by **AlanWS** » Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:59 pm

Your canoe will have a shape determined by the molds and where you cut the top, not the pattern of the strips. If your strips are uneven, the consequence will be in the way it looks. It is not often that anyone will see the canoe from the proper angle where it will be apparent that the strips don't match up. So deal with it as you see fit.

Just keep in mind that a narrow strip of contrasting color to nearby strips could be quite noticeable. If you don't want it noticed, some care in matching color and grain of adjacent strips would be useful.