:( :( I am ready to order a new 10" table saw blade for cutting strips out of WRC.
I remember reading a message that describes a blade that will provide a cut surface
that is good enough that the sanding operation can be eliminated. But, I cannot find it.
Which blade will provide this type finish and / or which message was it ??? :oops: :oops:
cutting strip blade type
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fisherguytoo
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Glen Smith
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The best blade I have found is a Freud Diablo "DR24". It is red in color and has a teflon coating. I use the 7.25" diameter blade in my 10" tablesaw. The blade has a thin kerf (a pinch over 1/16") so you have less waste and being a smaller diameter blade you get less blade wobble and smoother cuts. I don't bother planing my strips after cutting them because it is no longer necessary.
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Yann Dubois
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I do not understand
If you strip up your hull and don't sand it then you have flat strip surfaces and angles instead of a smooth curved hull surface. So if you sand to eliminate the angles, what is the point of producing strips that are perfectly smooth.
My point here is that you are likely to sand anyway and cedar is so easy to sand to an excellent finish. To get the most for your money out of a very expensive cedar board, especially if you are using western red cedar, using a band saw is the way to go. I get 22-23 strips out of a 7.25 inch board- a 1x8 these days. That means my kerf is less than 0.07 inches. Using a .75 inch wide blade made of .025 inch stock with 4 chisel teeth per inch gives a very even almost smooth surface. with the wide blade it is trapped in the kerf and is flexible enough to be forgiving if you get it a little out of alignmen with your fencet- not so with a rigid circular blade.
If you are planning to build a lot of boats, I highly recommend a decent 14 inch band saw.
My point here is that you are likely to sand anyway and cedar is so easy to sand to an excellent finish. To get the most for your money out of a very expensive cedar board, especially if you are using western red cedar, using a band saw is the way to go. I get 22-23 strips out of a 7.25 inch board- a 1x8 these days. That means my kerf is less than 0.07 inches. Using a .75 inch wide blade made of .025 inch stock with 4 chisel teeth per inch gives a very even almost smooth surface. with the wide blade it is trapped in the kerf and is flexible enough to be forgiving if you get it a little out of alignmen with your fencet- not so with a rigid circular blade.
If you are planning to build a lot of boats, I highly recommend a decent 14 inch band saw.
I also use a Freud Diablo 7 1/4" diameter blade, but not the same one Glen mentioned. Mine is gold colored, and I think the model is DO724. It is very thin - less than 1/16" - and cost about $8 Cdn. It works great. I just cut some 3/16" strips off the edge of a 6/4 maple plank last week for a laminating job I'm doing, and the cut was very smooth.
I agree with sedges that the strip surfaces don't need to be planer perfect, but it is important that they be uniformly thick along their length and between different strips. I certainly couldn't get that on my little 9" tabletop bandsaw (max blade width 3/8"). A decent (ie big) bandsaw is on my wishlist, but until I get one, the thin-kerf blade on the table saw does a good job.
I agree with sedges that the strip surfaces don't need to be planer perfect, but it is important that they be uniformly thick along their length and between different strips. I certainly couldn't get that on my little 9" tabletop bandsaw (max blade width 3/8"). A decent (ie big) bandsaw is on my wishlist, but until I get one, the thin-kerf blade on the table saw does a good job.
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Steve Lansdowne
Another thing to consider in using a very thin kerf blade is the minimal production of sawdust, creating more cleanup mess and, perhaps more importantly, wasting all that nice wood. I used a Matsushita 7 1/4" combo carbide tipped blade with a 1/16" kerf that costs $26 from Dave Carnell's add in MAIB. Nice blade, though more costly than the ones mentioned above. This is the one that Mac McCarthy recommends.