gap in planks at the bilge

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grosmatelot
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2009 3:18 pm

gap in planks at the bilge

Post by grosmatelot »

Hey Everyone,

Got a wee issue developing:

My planks are starting to want to lift off the molds at the bilge turn. I feel like this is probably a pretty common occurence and there's likely already a discussion about it, but I can't seem to find it. :rolling eyes If anyone knows where it is that would be great, or of course any new thoughts.

I was thinking of throwing a small nail into the previous plank and continuing on, patching up the little hole later on....

Thanks in advance!

Mike
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Patricks Dad
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
Location: Warrenville, Illinois

Post by Patricks Dad »

There are lots of approaches to addressing this problem. Your idea of a small nail (possibly through a scrap of wood first) works fine if the nail hole doesn't bother you. A staple is in the same league. I have used a drop of hot glue to the form on occasion. On my current build, I have used a cable tie around the entire hull every couple feet to keep all the strips tightly to the forms throughout the whole build. Others have used bungee cords. Another approach is to use fishingline wrapped around the strips and tied to screws in the forms to allow for a strong hold on the strips against the forms.
Randy Pfeifer
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grosmatelot
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2009 3:18 pm

Post by grosmatelot »

Hey thanks Patrick's Dad. I got some ratchet straps and wrapped four of them around the whole canoe. I added a couple of planks since and it's working great, I've just been leaving them in place and sliding the planks underneath, which I'll be able to keep up just about until the centerline. Thanks again!
David James
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Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 9:04 pm
Location: Glenview, Illinois

Post by David James »

Mike, I used ratchet straps positioned at four stations. Instaed of using the ratchet mechanism, I hung weights (never over cranked the ratchet). Also, a small block of scrap tucked under the strap and just over the strip being glued helps press that strip against the form with just a bit more force - kinda makes it behave a little better. Anyway, it worked for me.

good luck, Dave
"If given six hours to chop down a tree, spend the first four sharpening your ax." - Abraham Lincoln
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Bryan Hansel
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Location: Grand Marais, MN
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Post by Bryan Hansel »

If you don't mind cutting off parts of a few strips, you can remove the pressure by adding a "goring" strip. Lay a new strip near the buckle and shape it by pulling the ends down towards the sheer. When the strip sits flat against the forms, trace the shape. Then cut out the strips above your tracing. The strips will now turn the bilge without buckling.
pumpkin
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Location: North Dakota

Post by pumpkin »

I used a hot glue gun to put a glue wedge in the corner between the strips and the form in problem areas. Push the strip into place and glue it. In a few minutes you can remove whatever clamp you used and carry on. Make the gob of glue big enough to grab with pliers and when you remove the forms pull straight out sharply and the glue will pop off clean. I had no tearout using cheap glue sticks.

Matthew
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