Taper from scupper blocks to decks

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woodguy00
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Taper from scupper blocks to decks

Post by woodguy00 » Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:37 am

Another question moving further along in construction. I plan to make scuppered inwales for my Passage Solo similar to John Michne's instructions. I've ripped ash to 1/4x 3/4 which will be scarfed and have cherry in 1/4" x 3/4" for the scupper blocks. I plan to use 1/4" thick cherry for small decks that I'd like to fit inside the vee of the inwales, not butted to them or covering them. I'd add ash grab handles just back of the deck. Outwales are 3/8" ash as I prefer a lighter look on a solo canoe.

Is there a good , clean way to transition down from 1/2" total inwale thickness to the 1/4" thickness of the ash only? In Van Louven's book, she shows a wedge opening which doesn't do a lot for me. Might a wedge of the cherry look better? I think as long as I leave plenty of room, not taking the scuppers too far into the ends, either would look fine.
What do you experienced folks think?

Anybody have photos of their transition and decks they could post ?

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Patricks Dad
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Post by Patricks Dad » Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:01 am

I think your wedge of cherry idea would be a good way to go. I've never used blocks to create scuppers. I've milled the scuppers out of full-sized gunwale stock and stopped the scuppers about 3 ft from the end. That made it easy to taper the gunwale down over that 3' distance. In your case, you have a narrower inwale to begin with, so filling in that space with a wedge makes sense. It will look great.
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

woodguy00
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Post by woodguy00 » Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:00 am

Thanks Randy.

Still scratching my chin but now considering just continuing the 1/4" cherry solid to the tip stopping the scuppers as you did. With only 1/2" of total inwale thickness and 3/8 outwale thickness, I'm thinking it won't be too bulky. As I cut the blocks I think I'll tape or hot melt a demo and see what it looks like. John Michne emailed me and raised a valid concern that making and fitting the solid taper would take a fair amount of craftsmanship to look good. My craftsmanship abilities are somewhat less than "fair".

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Patricks Dad
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Post by Patricks Dad » Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:17 am

The last canoe I built had ribs (the legacy from which scuppers came). I didn't run the ribs all the way to the stems. I was therefore left with the same problem you have with your scupper blocks (I had forgotten about this when I responded earlier).

I used the wedge approach you described. Cutting the wedge was easy and installed nicely. It was 1/4" on one end and 0" on the other and 13-15" long (just a bit longer than my decks).

Here's a photo:


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and a close up:
Image

My approach to cutting the wedge was to build a slight incline plane (equal to the angle of the wedge I wanted to cut), mount the target piece of wood for the wedge to this incline plane with double-face tape and then run the whole thing through my planer. I used this approach on other aspects of this deck as you might guess.

good luck!
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

woodguy00
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Post by woodguy00 » Thu Feb 17, 2011 3:00 pm

Oh man, you're killing me with your work. I'll never be able to post pictures of how mine turns out - too embarassed.

Thanks

Tim

Snowman
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Post by Snowman » Thu Feb 17, 2011 9:19 pm

Woodguy00

Interesting question. I see many ways to finish up this detail (I know that is not your question...). I am not sure that I would use a cherry wedge where you are thinking (with the cherry decks) Although you will have symmetry, the fine wedges will kind of stick out on their own and move your attention away from the centreline. I would think that the effect you get from doing this is that it will create the illusion that the bow and stern are not a fine vee. I am not sure that I can explain my thoughts. It is one of those things that if it doesn't seem right - there may be a reason - it is likely not right. Maybe there is a reason that I am not an artist...

Two other options (which I am sure that you thought of) are to:

a. terminate the 1/4" ash inwale at the deck - no wedges to worry about. The 1/4" ash inwal would tie toegther nicely with the ash grab handles you noted (if I understand correctly); or

b. use a 1/4" cherry block (untapered) outboard of the 1/4" ash which continues all the way fwd (and aft) and taper the 1/4" ash down to zero.

I have never tried this configuration. I have only tried a single piece inwhale (like Randy), with a hand taper on the outboard side (which is epoxied to the hull).

Whatever you try, post some pictures - even if you do a mock-up or dry fit before you do a final assembly.

Good luck.


Snowman
Snowman back East

woodguy00
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Post by woodguy00 » Sat Feb 19, 2011 1:28 am

So I made up a couple rough mock-ups tonight with scrap and cardboard for decks. I definitely did not like the open wedge shaped gap where the scuppers end. I think I'll pass with the cherry wedge too. I liked the look of continuing both layers of the inwale to the tip. I thought it might be too thick before trying it but I like the added color of the cherry. The bow and stern are both pretty narrow on this boat - with thin gunwale stock I don't think tapering is necessary/ When my dear wife (She Who Must Be Obeyed ) liked that look best, the design was locked in

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woodguy00
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Re: Taper from scupper blocks to decks

Post by woodguy00 » Sat Mar 19, 2011 11:42 pm

The final turned out pretty well. I did end up with an unanticipated scarf joint - remember the old adage about measuring twice and cutting once? I cut the gunwale a foot short - right on my mark where to stop routing a roundover cut. Fortunately I had about six inches extra length I could use in a scarf.

I've posted more pictures in the project directory forum.

Tim

Image

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Taper from scupper blocks to decks

Post by Patricks Dad » Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:39 am

Awesome!
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

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