any advice about a 10" band saw for strips?

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Rickkane25
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any advice about a 10" band saw for strips?

Post by Rickkane25 » Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:00 am

Several posts here mention success using a well tuned 14" band saw for strips, with uniform widths and minimal waste.

Has anyone tried, or have advice for me about, using a 10" band saw?

I have a (not great) table saw, and would like at last to add a 14" table saw to my tools, but it's expensive for me right now. There a nice sale on a 10" Jet band saw here (Raleigh NC) , but there's no point in getting that, if it won't meet my immediate priority, which is to cut strips for the 16' Prospector I am just starting.

Thank you!! ...... Rick Kane

wb9tpg
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Post by wb9tpg » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:21 pm

A 10" band saw (usually 1/2 hp) may not have enough power for sustained cutting of 3/4" stock unless the feed rate is SLOW and you use the right blade. You'd be best with a 3/8" or 1/2" blade on it

Searching around, it looks like some Jet 10" band saws have Carter guides (ball bearing guides).. That is a plus but will result in more noise so wear hearing protection. I will take a 1/2" blade too if it's the model I'm thinking of.

Throw away the stock blade and order some from Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery). They are real nice people and will tell you the exact blade you need based on what you'll be cutting and the saw. They are experts on bandsaws and can give you an expert opinion before you buy the saw.

sedges
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band saws

Post by sedges » Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:26 pm

I would only band saw strips if I could use a 3/4 in wide blade. I have done it with small saws and blades and the results were not consistently good strips. I currently use an old Rockwell/Delta 14" band saw with a 3/4 inch 0.022" thickness 4 tooth per inch chisel tooth blade. It is actually a Delta brand blade 28-040. This is a great blade for ripping strips. The chisel tooth blade leaves a pretty smooth surface, the thin blade is captured in the kerf and doesn't wander at all. It usually get 25 strips from a 1x8(actually 7.5).

Learn to set up and fine your saw well. It will make all the difference. Clean the gunk off the rubber wheels regularly, keep the blade guides square and well adjusted. Have plenty of support for your boards, but not rollers as they will pull your board out of alignment if they are not absolutely perfectly square with the fence. Boards topped with slippery pvc pipe works well.

BearLeeAlive
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Post by BearLeeAlive » Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:21 am

A properly set up bandsaw works great for ripping strips. Ripping cedar will likely be one of the lightest duty tasks it might have. I would look at buying one that would serve you for other intended uses too. If this means buying a good 14" later due to financing, I would wait unless the deal on this 10" makes it worthwhile as a stop gap measure which would likely do for your strips. Definitely use the largest ripping blade possible. On my 3hp Laguna 14" I use either 1" or 3/4" for ripping, and have resawn a 13" birch board with no problem.

Your other option, and one I used in my table saw, is using a Freud Diablo thin kerf 7 1/4" blade. It is quite important to set up your saw correctly first to ensure a smooth cut, first setting the talbe parallel to the blade, then the fence parallel to the table. Lots of YouTube vids showing how to do this. In many ways I prefer this method, mostly because I find it way easier to set up feather boards to keep the wood tight to the saw and fence.
-JIM-

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Redbird Bernie
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Post by Redbird Bernie » Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:42 am

Why use a band saw? In my opinion the table saw is better suited to strip cutting. And, if you don't have a table saw you should think about buying one instead of a band saw.

If you have little or no experience with a band saw you'll likely get bad results. Band saws require fine adjusting to cut true and setting the adjustments is especially tedious if you have not done it before. If you buy a poor quality band saw it may never cut true. Believe me on this one, my band saw was a gift that I would have been better off without.

Bernie

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DSJ
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Post by DSJ » Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:11 pm

If you have a table saw, why not use it for strips?

You don't need a really great table saw to rip cedar strips. I have a cheapo ($99) 10" bench saw that I used for two canoes. I got it as a present so it's what I use.
If you can set it so the blade stays square to the table and get the fence to stay in place then you can use it.
Start with a sharp combination or ripping blade and you should be good to go.

Another option for a table saw is to watch your local classifieds or craigslist for a used table saw. Lots of people sell them cheap just to clear out space in the garage.

Of course, if you have a chance to get a band saw, then get it. even if you dont use it for strips theres lots of other uses for one.

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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith » Mon Feb 21, 2011 7:40 pm

Some builders have never used anything but a portable circular saw for ripping strips from boards.

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Jim Dodd
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Post by Jim Dodd » Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:05 am

All I use to cut strips is a 13amp.Makita, skill saw! I bought nearly 20 years ago. I've cut strips for no less than 20 boats, and it's still going strong. Carbide blade with a thin kerf and 24teeth works great.

It cuts very uniform strips, and you need that for bead and cove !

Method ? I place the planks I'm cutting on my strongback, with spacers every foot. So you don't cut up the strongback DA !

Take a few small finish nails to hold the plank from slipping. Be sure not to hit these while cutting strips !

I made a fence out of aluminum angle,about 18" long. Use small C-clamps to fasten to the base of the saw.

You will be amazed at how accurate the strips come out !!

You get real dusty so be sure to wear a GOOD quality mask ! Also the blade is exposed because of the narrow strips. These are the two drawbacks I see.

I've done this alone, but someone to handle the strips really saves time, and it's a safety thing too !

I have a cheap 10"band saw that works great for trimming the ends of strips when your filling in the football.

Good Luck !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

woodguy00
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Post by woodguy00 » Sun Feb 27, 2011 11:47 pm

I agree with Jim and Glen. A circular saw with a thin carbide 24 tooth blade - I bought the Freud Diablo based on others around here- with an aluminum rip guide works well. Very uniform strips and little waste. If you can find wide stock - 1x10, 1x12 - it goes really fast. I used clamps to hold the material to 1/2 sheets of sacrificial MDF tacked down on my strongback. I was able to get 70 3/16" strips from 1 1x10 and 2 1x6's - enough for a solo canoe with about 10 left over.

Using a circular saw also lets you get y in a small area. No need for infeed and outfeed. My son and I cut strips inside a normal size garage on a really cold day.

Image

Image

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Jim Dodd
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Post by Jim Dodd » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:20 am

Right on Woodguy !
Nice pic.
I've switched blades different times and I do like the Diablo.
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

AlanWS
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Post by AlanWS » Mon Feb 28, 2011 9:46 pm

I agree with Jim, Glen, and Woodguy00. I have used both a tablesaw and a circular saw, and prefer the circular saw method.
Alan

pumpkin
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Post by pumpkin » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:09 pm

Another 1 for circular saw.

Matthew

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