Tite Bond III instead of epoxy??

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Charger1966
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Tite Bond III instead of epoxy??

Post by Charger1966 »

Hey everyone, I have a question for the good people of this forum. Is it possible to use Tits-Bond III for the gluing of the strips on my Adirondack Guide Boat? It has an open time of 25 minutes and is water proof when dry. It will be covered in Epoxy Resin , Glass and Varnish on the outside and Varnish on the inside. It seems to me that it is going to be well sealed from any contact with the water. What are your opinions on this? Has anyone tried it before? Were there bad results or good ones? Please add your input. Thanks & as always
"Keep Making That Sawdust"
wb9tpg
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Post by wb9tpg »

Titebond III only has a open time of 10 minutes per the manufacturer. It also has the lowest min (application) temp if that matters to you. It is the hardest to clean up if as well Link
  • Original Titebond - 5 Minute open time; 50 degrees min temp
  • Titebond II - 5 Minute open time; 55 degrees min temp
  • Titebond III - 10 Minute open time; 47 degrees min temp
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Charger1966
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Post by Charger1966 »

Ok I misunderstood that then, ten minute open time & with a ten-fifteen minute assembly/clamp time but with lower temps in the shop you can gain a few more minutes. My question still stands, Can you use it with good results in the gluing of the hull strips on a 14' guide boat?
"Keep Making That Sawdust"
wb9tpg
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Post by wb9tpg »

I don't know enough about your project to say yes or no but I do intend on using Original Titebond for planking the Ranger I'm starting. The main reason is it's easy to clean up and it's covered by fiberglass and epoxy so it does not need to be waterproof.
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Charger1966
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Post by Charger1966 »

I am building the 14' Virginia from John Michne's book. I am just about through with the rib and I am going to be starting the bottom board hopefully this week. I am on a fixed income and I am always looking for more inexpensive ways to do things.The strips will be western red cedar with some pine mixed in for accent strips.So Original Titebond would be better to use for these? I have never used it in any of my woodworking projects . Thanks for the info.
"Keep Making That Sawdust"
podunk
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Post by podunk »

Be advised Titebond III dries to a dark brown color while Titebond II is more a yellowish color. Depending upon your wood you might want to consider that.
podunk
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Post by podunk »

P.S. used Titebond II on my Ranger and didn't have any problems. Bonded well and didn't contrast any with WRC I used. Tried some III but it showed up as a dark line between lines.
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Charger1966
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Post by Charger1966 »

Thank you for that information. I will take that into consideration. I am on the fence now on using WRC or Premium Select Pine for the hull. I have about two weeks before I am in need of the hull strips so I have time to decide.
"Keep Making That Sawdust"
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