A few questions

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Icebiker
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 3:30 pm

A few questions

Post by Icebiker » Thu Jul 21, 2011 7:05 pm

Firstly, thanks to all of the experienced members who contribute here, it really helps!

1. I re-read the section on fiber-glassing the inside of the hull a few times, and it doesn't seem to mention planing the inside stems. I wasn't sure what to do, but I want to 'glass soon so I put a fillet in. Is this alright? Does it have to be perfect?

2. I am planning on sanding the outer epoxy with 60grit (lightly) and then 120 (because I have them). Is it ok if I wait a few weeks between sanding the epoxy and varnishing?

3. How long does it take to make the trim (gunwales, deck, seats, yoke)? I don't want anything fancy, it will probably all be white ash- no scuppers. I just want a rough estimation, because I have a canoe trip I'd like to christen 'er on!

Thanks again for the advice, folks! Here is a pic of where I am at so far!
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Patricks Dad
Posts: 1383
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
Location: Warrenville, Illinois

Re: A few questions

Post by Patricks Dad » Thu Jul 21, 2011 8:03 pm

1. I re-read the section on fiber-glassing the inside of the hull a few times, and it doesn't seem to mention planing the inside stems. I wasn't sure what to do, but I want to 'glass soon so I put a fillet in. Is this alright? Does it have to be perfect?
The inside glass need not cover the inside stems. The inside stems should have had their "inside" (exposed) edges rounded over before you mounted them on the forms before stripping. If they are still square now, you could carefully round over the exposed edges now. Along the bottom of hull, the glass can be slit in the middle to the length of the stem (during the wetout process) to expose the stem and allowed to lay against bottom of the hull and along the side of the stem and then cut off flush with the top of the stem once the epoxy sets. You can use your sqeegee to push the glass into the angle between the hull and the stem. Near the sheerline, the glass can be cut just short of the inner stem and lay flat against the hull itself. No need for the stem itself to be covered by glass. If you've already put in a fillet, you can probably do the same process (but don't worry about getting glass fully over the stem).
2. I am planning on sanding the outer epoxy with 60grit (lightly) and then 120 (because I have them). Is it ok if I wait a few weeks between sanding the epoxy and varnishing?
A few weeks should be fine. Longer the better. no less than a week for sure (follow manuf directions).
3. How long does it take to make the trim (gunwales, deck, seats, yoke)? I don't want anything fancy, it will probably all be white ash- no scuppers. I just want a rough estimation, because I have a canoe trip I'd like to christen 'er on!
It will always take longer than you think. A rule of thumb that seems to fit my speed of building is that once the hull is fully stripped (not glassed), you're about 1/3 of the way through the build.

hope this helps. She looks great so far!
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

sedges
Posts: 291
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:37 pm
Location: georgia

a few answers

Post by sedges » Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:20 pm

I would not recommend jumping from 60 grit to 120 grit. It will take a lot of sanding with 120 to get flatten the course surface 60 grit will give you. 60 grit is a very aggressive paper.

I recommend a thorough sanding with 80 grit and then moving to 120. Varnish first coat and 220/240 wet sand between coats. Most times I wet sand with 150 after the 80 grit. Wet sanding really minimizes the dust in the shop, but some folks prefer a dry mess to a wet one.

Trimming out can be done in a day or two if you have the seats and blanks for the breast plates ready to go.

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