bowline hole

[backpaddler]

I'd like to put a bowline hole in my canoe but not sure to to go about doing that as far as the diameter of the hole, what to use for tubing and how to finish the outside edges.
I think the hole gets drilled behind the inside stem but not sure?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Bruce

[Patricks Dad]

If you do a search on this site I think you will find several threads on this topic. There are lots of approaches. The last canoe I built I used a small brass tube (plumbing nipple) about 3/8" in diameter. It's on the small side (next time would go a bit bigger). But I drilled the hole through the inner stem so there is no "breach" of the hull as a whole (no issues with sealing on the inside). Others have used a PVC pipe inside the inner stem and coated with epoxy or even a wood block cut to the right shape to make a nice finish on the inside. Lots of choices. On hole placement, make it as low as you can (just above the wateline).

[wb9tpg]

Check out this website link http://michneboat.com/Building%20the%20 ... ter%20hole

I followed those directions and it worked great. It's a little intimidating to drill into the hull.


Also, put one in the stern too

[Whitworks]

I'm going to put them on my Prospector. They're machined from 3/4" bronze rod with a 3/8" hole and a lip which will sit on the outer hull (they look like little 'topless' top hats)' One will be epoxied in from each side at each end, so I need four in all. I epoxied small cedar blocks which sit against the inboard inner stems and under the decks which will receive a 5/8" hole from the outside for the 'grommets?'. They are positioned about 1 3/4" behind the bow/stern and about 3/4" under the outer gunwhale. I hadn't thought about positioning them lower since the only reason I could think of doing so would be to keep the bow up in case of a tow.

I'll try to get some pictures here within the next few days.

Mark

[Patricks Dad]

under the decks

...

The reason for putting them as low as possible is to minimize the chance of tipping the canoe when lining it. If the line is high and you are pulling it at a side angle, you increase the liklihood of tipping it over in a delicate place (e.g., middle of some rapids you are lining through).

[backpaddler]

Thanks everyone for all the great info. I should be able to make some headway now

Cheers
Bruce

[Whitworks]

Gotcha. Good point from Patrick's Dad.

Not really intending to treat this first effort to the rigors of whitewater. It's just an alternative, and prettier to my eye, attachment point than the brass stem band loop projection on the foredeck. If the kids want more action for the rapids, I can always give them some pointers on rigging up a sling arrangement.

Maybe for the next build.

Mark

[HighPlainsDrifter]

I'm going to put them on my Prospector. They're machined from 3/4" bronze rod with a 3/8" hole and a lip which will sit on the outer hull (they look like little 'topless' top hats)' One will be epoxied in from each side at each end, so I need four in all. I epoxied small cedar blocks which sit against the inboard inner stems and under the decks which will receive a 5/8" hole from the outside for the 'grommets?'. They are positioned about 1 3/4" behind the bow/stern and about 3/4" under the outer gunwhale. I hadn't thought about positioning them lower since the only reason I could think of doing so would be to keep the bow up in case of a tow.

I'll try to get some pictures here within the next few days.

Mark

A tow line placed high will tend to pull the bow down under tow........ you do not want that. A tow line placed low will lift the bow when underway and the canoe will track along on top of the water.

[aliguori]

I'm thinking about using a 1/4" piece of hardwood epoxied into the hull as opposed to a solid hardwood tube. I think it would look better although I understand it's not as strong.

Does anyone have a feeling on whether this would be too weak for tie-up in slow moving wat

[sedges]

In the distant past when lining a canoe in rapids was common practice a sling was used that went from seats or thwarts around the hull and was knotted at the bottom, actually at the waterline. This, as was mentioned above, prevents the canoe from being pulled(tipped) over if it lodged on a rock. Canoe builders of that era could have put bowline holes or eyes low on the stems as well but they didn't. The reason is that when things go very bad when lining, or towing for that matter, a strong line attached to the stem could literally pull the canoe apart, ripping the stem from the plank ends. Even with our advanced building techniques and strong materials the force of moving water on a large surface area like a canoe creates tremendous force.

I believe a bowline hole or eye is a fine idea for tying up at the dock or shore or tying a boat to your vehicle. For towing or lining a rapids the old time sling method is still the way to go.